Removal of plastic aquarium rim

[hydrophyte]

I am getting this tank ready for a riparium display featuring Synodontis petricola. I started a journal thread for this project already.

http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... f=4&t=2808



This riparium setup will include a pendant light fixture, an open top and plants growing up into the space above the tank. The rimless aquarium will create a much more appealing display with unobstructed views of the emersed foliage and the water's surface.

I recently of a smart way to remove the top plastic aquarium rim. Here is the list of the items that I used:

1. 50-gallon Aqueon aquarium
2. block plane
3. snap-blade cutter
4. safety glasses

Naturally the best way to incorporate a rimless tank would be to purchase one built for this purpose. This model that I am using relies on the top plastic rim for much of its physical strength and ability to resist water pressure. Consequently, it has thinner glass panels and less rigorous construction than would be expected for a rimless tank. However, the aquarium will be filled to only about 3/4 of total depth. I hope that the several inches of seam on each corner above the waterline will resist excessive glass deflection and failure of the silicone seams.



This rusty old plane had a dull and chipped blade, but it functioned well enough for removal of the soft rim plastic.



I shaved away plastic all around the top outside edge of the rim until reaching the silicone sealant occupying the void between the rim and the top edges of the glass panels. I was careful to not proceed any deeper, as the plane would have easily chipped the edges of the glass.



After separating the rim into two pieces I was able to pull it away from the glass in several spots. Silicone sealant adheres very well to glass, but makes a very weak bond with most kinds of plastic. Nevertheless, I found the rim to be holding tight at each of the corners, so I used a snap-blade cutter to slice between the silicone and the glass. This is not a recommended use for for this kind of cutter--the blade can snap and send sections flying through the air--but I worked slowly and with extra care. It is a good idea to wear eye protection when doing any kind of cutting work.



The outside piece of the rim just came right off. It took some additional slicing with the cutter and careful pulling, but I was able to coax the inside piece off in just a couple of minutes.



Here is the tank with rim removed. Much of the painted background came off with the rim. It had occurred to me to try to save the background and patch it up with some more paint, but it will look better if I just remove the old paint and apply again.








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[Haavard Stoere]

Here is the tank with rim removed. Much of the painted background came off with the rim. It had occurred to me to try to save the background and patch it up with some more paint, but it will look better if I just remove the old paint and apply again.

I totally agree. Remove the paint and apply new paint.
On all of my tanks the last few years I have used black on the background. Actually I think dark gray might be even better, but I am not sure. It kind of depends on the tank interior. Anyways... I like the fact that you removed the plastic

[hydrophyte]

Yeah it will be no trouble at all to put a couple of new coats of paint on there. I like charcoal too and I might consider that. I recently saw a really dark green used to good effect.

This tank was designed to be supported by the top plastic rim, so it does not have such strong construction like a real rimless aquarium. However, I intend to fill to only 3/4 or 2/3 full and I think it will be OK. It will have the same general look as this 120-gallon setup, but with a higher water level. I might even employ similar rounded stones in this new setup.

[Shane]

However, I intend to fill to only 3/4 or 2/3 full and I think it will be OK.

I have some pretty old tanks that get moved from place to place a lot. Over time, the plastic tops and bottoms have simply fallen off many of them. The tank's still hold water and all have been in service with me for over 10 years (and filled to the top). After watching this for sometime I think the plastic is really there for 1) protecting the tank from bumps and during shipment from the factory 2) as a place to rest the hood/lights on and 3) to provide a stable base for HOT filters, etc.

I am not sure they are actually there to add to the tank's structural integrity.
-Shane

[WhitePine]

I just pulled the plastic off one of my tank to marke a "edge" tank. I just use the razor knife to slice along side the plastic through the silicon. top pops right off.

[L number Banana]

Nice idea, I like that. I've got some orchids that could benefit from a setup like that. If the water was a little higher, do you think any types of fish would be happy there? Maybe a shrimp heaven? Little crabs?

Very pretty, please post some pics when you're finished.

[hydrophyte]

These riparium setups are real good for displaying fish, and plants. That tank above actually has a couple dozen wild-type livebearers in it, but they were all lurking in the background when I got that picture. Ripariums are not so good for terrestrial/amphibious animals because there isn't any real land area. The plants are all supported with hanging and floating planters.

I have hung several epiphytic orchids up along the rear pane of glass and they really like the light and extra humidity.

[DJ-don]

maybe seeing a pair of any kind of pleco might make the tank stand out more to my opinion
imagine then breeding between the roots of plants and such!

[hydrophyte]

I am becoming more an more interested in plecs with the amazing pictures that I have seen posted here.

Can anybody suggest any species in particular that will be happy in medium-size tanks (50-75 gallons). Are there any that are more active during the day than others. I am a bit less interested in fish that just hide all day long.

[DJ-don]

the

Ancistrus cf_cirrhosus

known as common bristlnose isa good starter pleco. at first they will be a bit shy but as they get use to the tank they will get more active

[Mod edit: Fix CLOG-link --Mats]

[hydrophyte]

I do have one bristlenose pleco already in a community tank and it is a very nice fish. I would additionally be interested to hear suggestions for somewhat larger (maybe up to 20cm or so) and more unusual species, which have some diurnal activity and would be good candidates for a species setup.

I hope to have some updates for this 50-gallon project real soon. I am going to work on it some more tonight.

[Richard B]

Hmmm, i'm not sure if

Peckoltia sabaji

might be something to tempt you around the 20cm size?

I also think the common bristlenose might be a little bit too herbivourous? (wouldn't want to see the plants suffer too much...)

[hydrophyte]

Thanks very much. I should snoop around and see if I might be able to find that one here in the US.

[apistomaster]

All of the Hypancistrus species tend to be very shy and more nocturnal. Peckoltia sp L134 is a colorful species which tends to come out more during the day than the Hypancistrus.
Another factor that will determine how often you see them is how many you keep in the tank. Keeping 2 species groups of six or more each in the same tank they will be more competitive and will all come out to feed during the day.
A common Bushy Nose does not normally damage or eat your plants as so long as they are kept well fed. They are not purely vegetarian plecos so if you feed them about 50/50 normal foods high in animal protein and the other half mainly Algae wafers they will do well and not harm your plants.

The top plastic framing is an essential structural component on tall long tanks. For example: A 55 gallon tank will break if filled to the top without the top plastic frame with the cross brace. That cross brace is necessary. However, You can remove to frame and glue full length longitudinal glass strips about 1 inch wide and a 3 to 4 inch wide glass cross strip centered and siliconed to the lengthwise strips. If you simply attempt to glue the cross strip without using the stiffening lengthwise strips the joints will fail under tension if you rely simply on a butt joint. That type will not have sufficient bond strength to resist the tensile forces of a fully filled tank. I have learned this the hard way.
I have built several hundred all glass tanks from 3 to 100 gallons and have learned a few things about what is and isn't possible for a give thickness of normal plate glass. I use 3/16 inch plate for tanks up to 40 gallons and no taller than 16 inches. Anything up to 60 inches long and 16 inches tall may be built out of 1/4 inch plate glass. Larger and taller should use 3/8 inch plate. I recommend not exceeding 20 inches in height. One of my favorite sizes to build for display use is a tank made out of 1/4 inch plate glass, with longitudinal 1-1/8 wide full length front and back glass strips and a 4 inch wide cross brace. The dimensions were 48 X 16 X 16 inches. This is almost 53 gals. It has much more carrying capacity than the popular 55 gal show due to it's greater surface area.

Even for 4 to 20 gal tanks i recommend using 3/16 inch glass because the tanks will be strong enough to pick up from one end for ease of handling. I had a hatchery with all my tanks home made so I found out what were some durable and useful tank sizes. The majority of my tanks were 10 and 25 gallon tanks. Their designs were all made to maximize surface area to volume. The 10 gal tanks were 20 X 12 X 10H inches. No additional bracing required. The 25 gal tanks were 30 X 16 X 12H inches. The 25 gal tanks had full length longitudinal strips of glass along the tops of the front and back but did not require a cross brace due to the shallow 12 inch height. If you go 36 inches long and over 14 inches to 18 inches high you should add a center cross brace of a minimum of 3 inches width.

[hydrophyte]

Thanks so much for that detailed response apistomaster. So do you think this rimless 50-gallon will be OK filled to about 1/4 full? That will be water about 14" deep, with about 4" of seam above the waterline.

[apistomaster]

I think that 14 inches will be fine.
What are the dimensions of this tank and how thick is the glass? It looks like the top plastic frame had a cross brace.
Odd for only a 50 gal tank 36 inches long, IMO, based on my semi-professional engineering and construction materials background, methinks they skimped and used 3/16 inch glass instead of 1/4 inch which would not require a cross brace but would/should be stiffened along the lengths of the front and back sides. If it does not interfere with your plans and aesthetics, I would glue a strip 1-1/4 X 3/16 inches along the inside top of the tank with silicone. If you should decide to use the added glass strips, be sure to carefully clean the residual old silicone sealant off with acetone but carefully. You don't want to weaken the vertical corner bonds at all. When you test fill it after the silicone has cured 48 hours at above 70*F, check the deflection of the long side panels with a straight edge. I think you could go as deep as 16 inches of water without any problems. Probably would be safe to 18 inches if the tank is 20 inches high. These latter depths will depend on the deflection. Check at the top and bottom. The centroid of the sides(longest) panels will deflect some regardless but should not deflect at the bottom or top. You could add the strips I'm urging after a test and deflection check at 14 to 16 inches of water. If the top is deflecting, I would definitely add the reinforcing lengthwise glass stiffening strips. These strips would be inside and flush with the top thus a neat yet structurally sounder result. It could be longer and placed on the top edges but that is less attractive.

When dinosaurs still ruled the earth, a 50 gallon tank was 36 X 18 X 18 inches and was constructed out of 1/4 inch plate...with a stainless steel frame no less. An all glass and silicone in this size would work fine.

Then the dimensions began to shift to taller and and more narrow. The glass used became thinner.
As Bucky Fuller puts it, "The doing of ever more with ever less." Efficiency in the use of materials is not stupid but there is something to be said for a little heft sometimes and aquarium construction is in that category.
Then came;
36 X 16 X 20 inches; 50 gallons
or
48 X 12 X 20 inches, the most dreadfully and poorly designed, ever popular 55 gallon Show tank.
Guess I'm done rambling for now.

[hydrophyte]

I am away from my shop right now, but I believe that the front and back panes are 1/4", while the two side panels are 3/16". The tank is a standard 50 breeder with dimensions 36" X 18" X 18". Thanks very much for such detailed guidance. I think that I might be inclined to just fill to a more shallow depth if I observe deflection or other trouble. I had also thought to reinforce each top corner with a short piece of steel or aluminum bent 90 degrees and glued or siliconed in place.

it is remarkable how cheap they make everything anymore. I have a Levi's jeans style that I have worn for decades and I swear that every time I order few new pair they are thinner and lighter and wear out that much faster.

I have a setup in a 55 gallon and I agree that it is a terrible shape. However, it worked out well for the planting that I used. I wanted a display with different and varied Cryptocoryne lined up to contrast their shapes, textures and colors. It is rather 2-dimensional and flat, but it gave me the effect that I wanted and the plants are happy too.

[apistomaster]

OK, but don't try your reinforcing ideas.
The least that will do the most good would be to glue a 30 X 1 X 3/16 inch strip centered on the front and back panes level with the top.
That is, recess the strip so the flat portion is even with the existing top. Just that much will provide a great deal of stiffness and will hardly be noticed.
Nothing you would like, done to the corners, will contribute to added strength.

[hydrophyte]

I'll keep that in mind. I am most likely to just fill to several inches from the top and I hope that the tank will be strong enough that way. I like to have some empty tank above the water as a way to keep a little more humidity and warmth right around the plants in the chilly house.

[apistomaster]

Good luck with your project.
I have always wanted to try something similar but I have so many competing aquatic interests so i haven't gotten around to them all.
I have a small house full of aquariums. They are covered but they add plenty of humidity and my two filter sumps contribute more moisture even though I covered them, too.

I have always thought it would be interesting to grow Cryptocoryne emersed or other plants we keep under water but are really bog plants.
Closely related is my wish to keep and breed at least one species of Poison Dart frogs and keep the breeders in a bog vivarium.

I haven't cultured SPS Corals yet. They are a cool aspect of this addictive hobby.

So much to do but not enough time or space.