Otocinclus Breeding

[James0816, posts: 429]

The only problem about that much would be physically measuring it out for 10g tanks. I'm so hesitant as I don't want to OD the tank and wind up killing my breeders. Yikes!

Another thing....do you know if it works on Planaria as well? I have another tank (no Oto fry in that one) that has an abundance of Planaria I would like to get rid off. Variety of snails are in there as well.

[MatsP]

If you have fish in, and no invertebrates in the tank, overdosing shouldn't be a problem. With inverts in the tank, you need to be more careful, as they may be affected. For fish, an overdose of 10-20x is not harmful - it doesn't "help" to overdose, but it's not doing any harm either.

--
Mats

[apistomaster, posts: 4570]

Using basically a small pinch of the powder per 10 gal of water will only deal with the Hydra. No other pests or valuable fish or their fry will be harmed.

[James0816, posts: 429]

There are shrimp in there too unfortunately. I have Caridina serratirostris in with the Oto's.

Do you know if this works on detritus and Planaria worms as well?

It will have to be invert safe since I have the snails and shrimp in the other tanks.

[James0816, posts: 429]

No other pests or valuable fish or their fry will be harmed.

Oops.. I read this as "pets" instead of "pests". So this product would not work on Planaria and/or Detritus worms then.

Hydra is the main concern since they are in a breeding tank. The worms are in other tanks which would be a plus if the product will take them out as well. Two birds with one stone so to speak.

[apistomaster, posts: 4570]

The other pests would take a high dose and even that might be enough.
Hydra are uniquely vulnerable to a very small dose of flubendazole.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Found (11) wigglers today. Awesome deal! Will start feeding tomorrow. Unfortunately, the Hydra are gonna like that too. I'm going to start with some squishing and rubbing of plants to see if I can remove most of them that way.

As for the Macro's, well...she's trying again in the new tank. The boys as usual are being immature. I don't know what this poor gal has to do to get them to work with her. Anyone have any studs to loan out? lol

I'm sure things will be ok the more they get used to their new home.

[apistomaster, posts: 4570]

I would not try to remove or damage the Hydra. Use only flubendzole. It is the only safe and completely effective way of dealing with them. Lord knows, a lot of wacky methods were tried but none ever worked until flubendazole became available.

You can blend Hydra into little bits and each bit grow into complete polyps; how do you think they got their name?
Are you familiar with the monster of Greek myth?
Cut off one head and two grew in it's place.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Yikes! Once the med takes them out, do they eventually fall off their perch? I'm gonna let the wigglers get a bit older before using but feel there is a bigger spawn lurking around the corner.

[apistomaster, posts: 4570]

Yes they do but at first they shrivel where they are, then drop off and disappear. Maybe snails and natural decay gets them. Not enough dead matter to pollute your tanks. They are virtually all water.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Further research reveals that both Fen and Flub are not good for Briggs snails. This would take these off the table for use. Time to break out the tweezers for sure.

[apistomaster, posts: 4570]

Tweezers and all other old fashion remedies are futile.
If you fear for the snails then collect those of value and house them temporarily for about 2 weeks. Make a large water change after the Hydra are gone and return the snails.
I seriously doubt the Briggs Snails would be harmed by the extremely low doses of flubendazole required to eliminate the Hydra. You can't imagine a more "silver bullet" approach to eliminating Hydra than the small doses of flubendazole.

I fail to understand your continued bringing up useless alternatives. But it is your fish and if you refuse to use the only effective method of safely eliminating them then be prepared for fry loses to the Hydras.
I can no longer provide you with sound advice if you are unwilling to use the only known safe and effective method of COMPLETELY eliminating them.
I am willing to send you enough to treat all your tanks for a modest fee of $5.00 and if you send me a self addressed envelope with a stamp on it. I will need to know the number and sizes of the tanks and then I can send you individual packets of the correct dose so all you have to do is empty the tiny zip lock bags. It isn't even necessary to make suspension; you can just dump the correct packet into each tank and it will float for a little while but will soon become an invisible suspension in the tank water. I can't think of a a better offer. If you lack faith in my advice then I can not feel sorry for your fry looses.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Don't get me wrong here...I do so greatly appreciate your sound advice and the offer. My concern is for the critters of course. I wouldn't want to kill the snails in the same manner of the Hydra. If it's a two week period to be able to put the snails back in the tank, then that would be plausible. I guess what it boils down to is how long would it take for the tank to be ready to house the Briggs again? They are an important product for the fry guys. I'll shoot you a PM.

[apistomaster, posts: 4570]

The treatment may take as little as 7 to as many as 10 days.
I reiterate, the chances of these low of doses have virtually no chance of harming the snails.
It takes up to 10 times the Hydra dose to even have a slight chance of harming snails.
Once you only see wilted Hydra then two days later change 50 to 75% of the water.
Do not use activated carbon in any filter during the treatment because it will remove the flubendazole. After completing the treatment and partial water changes then using some activated carbon will remove any minute amount of residual flubendazole.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Ok...I don't use carbon anyway. ;o)

We'll go for it. The Otos and their fry are the most important part of this whole deal so I have to do what I can to protect them.

[apistomaster, posts: 4570]

A wise decision.
Maybe I confused you with another poster but are you also having some success breeding Otocinclus cocama?
I would love to successfully breed those.

[James0816, posts: 429]

A wise decision.
Maybe I confused you with another poster but are you also having some success breeding Otocinclus cocama?
I would love to successfully breed those.

Not yet on the Cocama's, but we're giving it a go. It looks like the Macro's will be the next group to spawn.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Vittatus update: (17) eggs found today, (3) wiggle waggles, didn't try to count the older fry guys. I'm really curious on the spawning activity. Of course I don't know if it is one lady or both. It's almost as if they are laying in test batches. Either that or the Hydra are actually interferring with it all. Either way, I have order some meds to erradicate them. I've been speaking with a very knowledgable person about and have been ensured that no harm will come to anything in the tank other than Hydra.

Macrospilus: The female is still trying to get the guys' attention. ADHD still taking over them. She reals them in, a little nudge game and then over to the plants. It's at that point where the boys "see a toad and then chase after it". Only explanation I gots fer it.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Another spawn taking place. Not sure if it will be another mini or not though. I counted (27) eggs at the moment. Most of these are laid in the Bacopa area. I've only seen a couple Hydra there which I wondering if it plays a role. Either way, I will be eliminating them soon and hopefully safely. Snapped off a few pics. Time to see how good they may have turned out.

[James0816, posts: 429]

Got home late again today. Hatching already took place. No wigglers on the glass at the moment. Most are still on the plants. I went ahead and did the water change. Normally this is done right before the hatching but I think it will be ok. Didn't get a chance to count them before the lights went out.