corydoras and gravel/sand

[dw1305]

Hi all,
We've had a couple of threads about adding a sponge pre-filter for HOB, power-head and external filters.

Have a look here <http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... ge#p208275>.

The links to the sponge blocks are out of date, so "Swiss Tropicals - Poret foam is here: <http://www.swisstropicals.com/filtration-shop/> & the drilled foam blocks <http://www.ketteringkoi.com/foam-block- ... lled-10in/>.

cheers Darrel

[FerocactusLatispinus]

That's pretty interesting!

I like my external filter and all, but of course, the tank is right up against the wall, and the lid is modified to fit the filter, so it's positioned in the middle of the length of the tank (outflow into the front of the tank). I've seen powerheads, but I really need a very broad, sweeping flow. I wonder what density of foam would be best, since my Aqueon filter's not meant for foam or customized cartridges; I just hope to be able to find the right balance so I don't get too weak an outflow.

I managed to get a few pictures of Scooter, so you can see the denticulation boundaries. The median ridge on the head is there, but I noticed it's denticulated, so that's evidence Scooter's likely a female. I took a ventral view, and he/she's gradually been getting rather stout in the abdomen and tail; Scooter used to be rather thin, but I think it's been putting on a bit of fat since I first had it at 1.5". I never noticed that before, that the whole snout isn't all smooth, as I've read that a female has a rough snout, and males don't; that would make sense though, that females don't get bristles on the median ridge.

The only thing is, Scooter's behavior when its conspecific, Pip, was still around, was one of aggression every time; Pip at lights out was the same way, and would get bold by sneaking up from behind when both were on the glass. Pip also had that same snout: when I was transferring him to the LFS, in the process, I held Pip and felt the tip of its snout, and it wasn't rough; Pip was actually fatter than Scooter even when Scooter was at 1.75" and Pip at 1.5". Would that be possible that a female bristlenose would be aggressive to conspecifics when it isn't breeding? That has me puzzled...

[NCE12940]

My oldest female (Jane Doe) often goes after the younger long-fin (Emmylou) but does no damage, so far anyway. The fry are immune to all this and are even allowed to sucker around on Jane Doe's body. Bristlenoses are horrendous pigs and can get fat whether or not they're carrying eggs. I've even seen Emmylou eating poop when it's adjacent to algae wafers...

[FerocactusLatispinus]

Ha ha! My Scooter really is an indiscriminate feeder also, and sure has put on a few tenths of an ounce!

That's interesting to hear that both female and male Bristlenoses can display some intraspecific aggression. I knew they were good community fish, and that they were gentle with eating algae off live plants, but I always thought males were the aggressive ones. Thank you for confirming this! Next stop, my My Cats page to update Scooter's profile!

I've got three Banjo Catfish that love to bury themselves in the sand, and Scooter used to really pester them: i've seen on You Tube some Bristlenoses that will rasp on banjo cats partially buried in the substrate. What's funny to see, is that Scooter's learned to recognize the banjos, because they seem to hyperventilate when she's approaching about an inch from them; Scotter will usually then stop dead in her tracks and swim off in a different direction (so long as there isn't food between her and the banjo catfish)! I think they might be sending out some sounds underwater to alert Scooter ahead of time...

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I wonder what density of foam would be best, since my Aqueon filter's not meant for foam or customized cartridges; I just hope to be able to find the right balance so I don't get too weak an outflow.

I like the coarse PPI10 sponges, and I clean them about every 10 days (just a good slosh around in a bucket of water, and rinse under the cold tap). I'd note that our tap water is very lightly chlorinated (0.5ppm or less) compared to the USA.

One advantage of pre-filter sponge is that it is really quick to clean, and it reduces maintenance to the media inside the filter.

cheers Darrel

[FerocactusLatispinus]

Coarse PPl10 sponges, got it! That sounds great, thanks! Deteriorating aquarium floss occasionally seems to get some loose strands here and there in the water, and that'll be nice to not have to worry about with a sponge filter!

[Coryman]

Just my 2 penny worth and bringing the topic back to the title "corydoras & gravel/sand"

There are many natural area where Corys are found over gravel, but this is not rough like road chip pings but smooth pebble like. The size can and does vary from 1 to 2 millimetres to large boulders, but from what I have experienced and seen in reports there are also sandy areas.

The main thing is that what ever substrate you use it should have smooth rounded edges.

Ian

[JamesFish]

For anyone interested

I was looking at this but its a little on the pricy side for a big tank. I'm thinking about an 18"x 10" so very small("=inch).

http://www.jbl.de/en/aquatics-freshwate ... nsibar-red

Says suitable for armoured catfish however don't know if that includes cory's as its 0.2-0.6mm granules.

When I've had cory's on a substrate over 5 years I will recommend it as safe so far am only up to 2-3yrs. That's not the one above that I've been using.

[CoryfanAad]

For anyone interested

I was looking at this but its a little on the pricy side for a big tank. I'm thinking about an 18"x 10" so very small("=inch).

http://www.jbl.de/en/aquatics-freshwate ... nsibar-red

Says suitable for armoured catfish however don't know if that includes cory's as its 0.2-0.6mm granules.

When I've had cory's on a substrate over 5 years I will recommend it as safe so far am only up to 2-3yrs. That's not the one above that I've been using.

Weird thing is I read several issues (Corys and even goldfish) with (black) Sansibar on several international forums.
Tried to proof my suspecion that the (vulcanic) glass in it caused this issues (cutting into / irritating the barbels)but didn't really succeed. A goldfishkeeper noticed it irritated the gills of her fish.
I don't wanna scare anyone or put JBL in a bad perspective, but I still have my doubts / thoughts which I liked to share.
Regards Aad

[JamesFish]

Thanks for sharing. Its a shame really as was looking forward to using it. Something a little different than the bog standard sand.

Still always back to the catalogues and local shops to see what else is around.

[CoryfanAad]

Thanks for sharing. Its a shame really as was looking forward to using it. Something a little different than the bog standard sand.

Still always back to the catalogues and local shops to see what else is around.

Maybe other members have different experiences !!! And maybe it only is an issue with the black Sansibar !

[Corycory]

I am one of those that had bad experience with jbl sansibar black. Not only my corys got sick and their barbels eaten within 2 months of putting it but also the corys didn't sift through that sand as they do with normal sand so they clearly didn't see it as sand despite that it's very fine. If you rob it between your fingers you can feel the sharp edges.

[JamesFish]

Well its a shame but I guess it never said rounded edges so they never lied.

I've been using this for past 2-3 years
"http://www.zooplus.co.uk/shop/fish/deco ... vel/285153" 2-4mm grains and rounded but its not done anything harm as far as I can tell but its not great for them. Was hoping to go a little more cory mad and hopefully breed them a little. If I can manage that upgrading to pygmy for breeding is aim but realise a good substrate is key.

Something like this would match the advice of grain size but says nothing about edges.
"http://www.zooplus.co.uk/shop/fish/deco ... 85100#more"

I'm after a substrate that they can go nuts in and throw around a bit.

[Richard B]

I use senegal sand & never had a problems with it

http://www.unipacpet.co.uk/aquatic/aquarium-sand/

[CoryfanAad]

Well its a shame but I guess it never said rounded edges so they never lied.

I've been using this for past 2-3 years
"http://www.zooplus.co.uk/shop/fish/deco ... vel/285153" 2-4mm grains and rounded but its not done anything harm as far as I can tell but its not great for them. Was hoping to go a little more cory mad and hopefully breed them a little. If I can manage that upgrading to pygmy for breeding is aim but realise a good substrate is key.

Something like this would match the advice of grain size but says nothing about edges.
"http://www.zooplus.co.uk/shop/fish/deco ... 85100#more"

I'm after a substrate that they can go nuts in and throw around a bit.

Pool Filter Sand ?

[FerocactusLatispinus]

I have HTH brand pool filter sand, and I once woried it'd be too sharp, but once I added it, I've found that it is perfect for my corys and banjo cats, as well as my bare-bellied bristlenose pleco. It doesn't seem to have any very sharp edges, and the grain size is a little variable (all under 2 mm in diameter).

[catfishchaos]

I have seachems onyx sand in my 55 right now and I sadly thing I'll have to change to seachems black sand (I hear plants don't like plain sand so much and my tank is pretty well planted. I plan on grabbing some adolfoi corys soon do you think the Onyx is ok or should I switch to the black sand (appears to be much finer).

what I have right now

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product ... xSand.html

It's called flourite black sand....

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product ... kSand.html

I just did a massive re-scape, I really don't want to take it all down, but i'll do what I have to do for happy fish, plus I plan on using a lot of frozen foods so gravel would get disgusting quick I guess...

Thanks!

[FerocactusLatispinus]

It looks like Onyx Sand is really meant for a healthy planted aquarium, and the Fluorite type isn't supposed to alter chemically. The Onyx type seems to last for life, and doesn't need to be replaced. A smaller grain size is helpful for smaller fish like corys, but looking at the structure of the Fluorite type, it looks like little uneven sheets of clay to me. Plain sand wouldn't be good for live plants, and I don't have any live plants in my aquarium since I have a quartz sand substrate. I think your current substrate is the best choice for the continued health of your aquarium's inhabitants, plant and animal!

I wish I'd considered the substrate you're currently using before I added my silica sand; I've had a recurring problem with brown algae for some time now, and I've just read that what I've got is an infestation of microscopic animals called diatoms! The thing is, they live inside a silica shell, and quartz is silicon dioxide; so getting rid of them would mean my having to change the substrate (they don't need light to flourish, unlike more advanced types of algae, so they would just feed on waste and other debris instead). It's easy to scrub off the plants, but the driftwood is definitely the one hardest hit. I'd been wondering why my bristlenose pleco hasn't been eating that kind of algae...

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Plain sand wouldn't be good for live plants, and I don't have any live plants in my aquarium since I have a quartz sand substrate.

Sand is absolutely fine for planted aquariums, it doesn't have any nutrients present or any CEC (cation exchange capacity), but all plants can take in nutrients through their leaves, so this doesn't preclude plant growth. Even if you don't have plants planted in the sand you can always have plants like Ceratophyllum, Ceratopteris, Anubias, Microsorum, Bolbitis, mosses and floaters.

This tank has a sand substrate and my colony of

Corydoras hastatus

:.

and from above:


cheers Darrel

[FerocactusLatispinus]

Wow! That's really beautiful! It makes me wish I had a ton of live aquatic plants, but I've no experience as far as keeping a balance between aquatic plants and fish goes. I'm sure all your catfish appreciate that flora a whole lot more than plastic plants!

I'd always thought the compactness of sand would be bad for the plants' roots, but it seems I've been falsely applying terrestrial plant growth requirements to aquatic plants! I know cacti don't bother with organic nutrients for the most part, and mineral resources are one of their big requirements, but that makes sense that aquatic plants would use vegetative surface area for most nutrient absorption; cacti definitely utilize surface area for sunlight. I raise a ton of different species of several genera of cacti, and barrel cacti are forever my favorite!

[FerocactusLatispinus]

I snapped the perfect photo of all three of my corys just today! Take a peek!

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii4 ... C11785.jpg

[dw1305]

Hi all,

It makes me wish I had a ton of live aquatic plants, but I've no experience as far as keeping a balance between aquatic plants and fish goes......

Every tank can have plants, there are ways of growing them even in tanks with no substrate or Mbuna etc. Plants have a myriad of advantages for water quality. I developed the "Duckweed Index" as KISS method for planted tanks <http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... weed+index>, it does away with all "froth", and just concentrates on the important bits.

I know cacti don't bother with organic nutrients for the most part, and mineral resources are one of their big requirements, but that makes sense that aquatic plants would use vegetative surface area for most nutrient absorption; cacti definitely utilize surface area for sunlight. I raise a ton of different species of several genera of cacti....

I like Cacti as well, probably my favourites are the "furry" barrel cacti like Cephalocereus senilis and some of the epiphytic ones, good flowering ones like Hatiora gaertneri and "interesting" ones like H. salicornioides or Rhipsalis spp..

Cacti growing is quite relevant to how I use aquatic plants as well, I'm always trying to find ways to keep my plant alive, healthy and growing, but growing as slowly as possible (you can think of it as the Cactus, Bonsai or orchid approach). This is partially why I like Anubias, most ferns, and mosses, they have very low nutrient requirements.

cheers Darrel

[FerocactusLatispinus]

I guess my big concern would be getting the plants enough nutrients and light, but I've got plenty of good fluorescent light if I need it. I'm rather hesitant to switch out plastic for live plants, as live plants might carry some parasites/diseases from the water/soil they were in at the store. I really love the look of live plants, and there's no doubt the aquarium inhabitants would get a kick out of it! I'll definitely do some research before I start making changes in the aquatic flora!

The characteristic of cacti I love the most is the form, opacity, texture, and color of the spines; Ferocactus latispinus is my all-time favorite, since it has those deep red, sturdy, annulated, flattened spines. Interestingly, I don't have an F. latispinus yet, but I do have a Ferocactus stainesii spp. pringlei, F. wislizeni, and an Echinocactus grusonii. Cactus flowers are always amazing to see, and one of these days I might get a barrel cactus with edible fruit, E. texensis. The only edibles I have are a few Opuntia ficus indica that have yet to flower and fruit, and a Hylocereus undatus that has really taken off this year; the sautéed cladophylls of those prickly pears sure are great in omlettes!

[JamesFish]

Live plants are more trouble than plastic but the tough ones do fine for me in my quartz gravel. Live plants cause a few more flow problems, they dont always grow the way you want or do what you want but if they work they look much better.

- old shot but as you can see few issues to resolve but am working on it.

[FerocactusLatispinus]

Wow, I've gotta switch out my plastic plants right away!

I think I'll get only the hardiest plants out there. Now, do you plant these bare root in the sand, or do they need little plastic containers or mesh of some kind? Do you need to do a lot of siphoning of detritus or more frequent water changes?

Thanks!