PlanetCatfish.com

Planning a new tank, 125G most likely. I've been going over various filtration options in my head and on paper trying to decide how I want to handle a tank that size. In years past, with small tanks I always relied on Aqua Clear HOB's and they served me well. When I moved up to my current 75's I went to canisters, one on each tank. I also keep a big Aqua Clear 110 (old 500)hanging off the ends of each as backup and because I like the waterfall effect to break up the surface and increase oxygenation. I've decided I don't want to repeat that scheme on the new, larger tank. I could simply add a second canister and keep life simple...but what fun would that be?? Also, I do like the waterfall effect from the big Aqua Clears, so.......I've spent weeks poking around on Reef Centrals site. Those reef and salt water people do crazy things with plumbing, filters, pumps and sumps. I considered going to a sump/pump setup. Does have it's advantages on a larger tank, but now I've come up with a new idea and I wanted to toss it out here and see if anyone else has done this......The waterfall filters that they use on ponds are essentially an HOB on steroids. They can typically hold gallons of media, which gives them the capacity of a sump and because they discharge above the water level you get excellent surface action and oxygenation, so I'm thinking of incorporating one into the new stand. I have to build the stand anyway, so it wouldn't take much effort to bring one side out further and up to enclose the waterfall filter. That way....or so my thinking goes...I can have as much media capacity and flow as I need along with a substantial waterfall for flow and oxygenation. Only thing I'd have to have under the stand would be whatever pump and plumbing I come up with...All seems very simple and clean to me, but I was wondering who else may have tried this........Then again, maybe I just tend to over-think things:)

I've gone with the sump idea, but sure, a pond filter will work too. It's really not important where the filter is located or how the water circulates into/out of the filter (whether it "falls" into or out of the filter, for example).

When I built a pond, I build my own filter from a 4gal "header tank" - it's a plastic tub intended to have a float valve and sit above your central heating system, but they do well for filter systems, as they are plastic tubs that hold about 8 gal [despite the "4gal" nominal, that includes plenty of space for a float/ball valve - just like in your toilet cistern]. For a large tank, like a 125g tank, you can use a larger plastic tub...

My sumps are also made from the same type of 4gal tubs, for the larger systems, I've put two or three tubs together [making sure flow goes from top left to bottom right or some such, spreading over all of the media].

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Mats

Lots of guys on cichlid-forum.com use pond filters. But in my opinion, if you're going to go that route of having an external pump and all, might as well build a sump which gives you more flexibility.

Interesting feedback. I tend to look at all the options before I settle on something and I like thinking out of the box, just to see what else is possible or interesting. The sump route would simplify the stand build, but I do like the waterfalls for previously mentioned reasons. All still in the thinking phases, so I'm looking at everything and appreciate feedback. I explored the idea of building my own waterfall filter, but once I added up the cost of materials, plus my time, wasn't worth DIY. Sump might be simpler and less expensive, maybe. One of the problems is that nobody wants to drill a new tank for you here and I'm scared to risk a new tank doing it myself, although reefers seem to do it all the time without any problems. I dunno, too much thinking...givng me a headache!! LOL... Fish are growing too big for the 75 they're in, so I gotta stop thinking and start building their new home soon.

Everyone who hasn't drilled a tank is afraid of it. But it's not that hard, and I've certainly (touch wood) not broken anything yet, and I've drilled about a dozen holes in my tanks (including the two that I've no longer got). Currently, all my 11 tanks in the fishroom are drilled, the biggest one has two overflow holes in it.


The tools/bits you need would be:
1. A suitable size diamond "hole-saw". In the UK these are available in the big DIY stores.
I picked Lowes as a web-site to look it up on:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_192925-28303-12 ... aw$y=0$x=0
Harbour freight is (as expected) much less expesnive:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=32400

Of course, it needs to be the right size for whatever fitting you want to attach to the tank. I'm a cheap-skate, so I go with basic "overflow" system pipes, which are very cheap in this country.

2. A power-drill. I use a cord-less power-drill, but one with cord works too, as long as it's running at reasonable speed. The battery drill runs at about 1000-1300 rpm (no load) at the higher speed setting, which seems about right to me.

3. A template - a piece of sturdy plastic or plywood with a hole to match the drill bit. This prevents the bit from wandering when you start off.

4. Some way to attach the template. I've used both gaffer tape and G-clamps - depends on the circumstances.

5. A spray-bottle with water to keep the drill cool. [Alternatively, if you can lay the tank with the drill-side up, you can create a barrier with for example modeling clay, and make a little "lake" of water].

The process:
0. Before you start, make sure you have the tank in a suitable place - water with ground glass will "splatter" around the drill site - not something you want in your living room, for example. Best place is somewhere outside that you can rinse off afterwards (like a lawn or driveway).

1. Figure out where you want the hole. Bear in mind that if you have a overflow at, say, 2" under the edge of the tank, the water level will be somewhere above 2" - how much depends on the inflow. The first tank I drilled, I put the overflow too high, which made it prone to running over the edge.

2. Place the template to match where you want the hole. I put a piece of tape on the back to keep the "hole center" from falling out and flying about.

3. Start drilling. Keep the drill bit wet!

4. Once you have a good groove for the drill to "sit in", you can remove the template [this makes it easier to keep the drill cool, if nothing else].

5. Keep drilling, keep drill bit wet!

6. For a perfect hole, you should drill from the opposite side - but this requires matching the position [using the template] perfectly. I don't do this, I just drill through from the outside. It makes a few splinters on the inside, but not bad at all.

Keep calm, go slowly.

Of course, this is my advice, but you are the one holding the drill and doing the work. Not my fault if it goes wrong, ok?

Also, practice on some other bits of glass before you go at your new and shiny tank.

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Mats

Thanks Mats. Ya know, I may just take a shot at drilling this one. As you and others have pointed out to me, it ain't rocket science, you simply need to follow the right process, go slow and keep things cool/wet as you go. I'll get the appropriate hole saw and some scrap glass and play with it in the garage a few times and see how it goes before I attack a new tank. I can see where being able to add a hole or two exactly where you want them would make doing things a lot easier and neater......What the heck, guess it's time to learn a new skill...........thanks for the help and advice. When I start the project for real I'll post as I go. This will be my biggest and possibly last tank, so I'd like to do it a little different than what I've done in the past...we'll see