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Hi All,

I've never tried putting a sheet backing on a tank before, but tried yesterday and it's a fail. I bought the PennPlax double-sided (blue/black) sheeting and cut it to size for a 20gal long. I watched a few videos on YouTube that talk about using various adhesives (some specialized, some just vegetable oil) to adhere it.

I followed the videos, I used vegetable oil to apply it, I applied the plastic (vinyl, I suspect), I pressed out all the air bubbles. I even applied some light weights to keep down the corners. Today when I removed the weights, the backing lifted right up on its edges as if it had no attachment.

How does one apply this type of backing?

Thanks,
Eric

I never tried

Most of my tanks are pained black opn the sides and back, but one I forgot painting. So I took some plywood, painted that black and put this behind the tank. Other sizes were similar, so it cxould rest on the styropore.

Lots of tape. This is the main reason why I paint the outside glass. I even tried one of the tank adhesive products that is designed for this purpose. I think one must put it on before setting the tank on the stand. You need to get the back of the tank facing up. That way all work will be done with gravity on your side.

Even so you may still need to use tape to hold the edges down. I use clear scotch tape and fold it around the corner. Only a small amount of the tape should remain to be attached to the side. It should only be stuck to the end (edge) of the back glass as it will not be visible this way. If the tape goes onto the side glass, it can be visible though when viewing the tank from the front.

Thanks TTA.

Indeed, I'm performing this operation on an empty tank, laying on its front (so I am using gravity's favor).

I'll have to clean the outside of the sheet carefully before using tape because the oily film will prevent tape adhesion.

Wish me luck!

Cheers, Eric

Maybe you could just stick it on the outside of the tank? Or is that what you did?
If so, just use tape.

Yes on the outside.

Hi Eric,

It may be a little late as you already have the film, but I use this stuff: https://www.diy.com/departments/d-c-fix ... 137_BQ.prd

A self adhesive film, just cut to size, peel off the backing gradually and carefully smooth onto the glass with a credit card or similar. They also make a non-adhesive version which you attach by spraying a mist of water onto the glass, slide into position and then wait for the water to evaporate. I've only used the self adhesive stuff though, you need to go slowly to avoid bubbles, but it gives a good, and apparently removable finish.

Thanks Marc. I'll look into it if this fails.

generally tank back vinyl sheets are either put on with a mild soap and water solution or an adhesive stick .never heaard of oil and i don't understand how they expect that to work

kvnbyl wrote: 08 May 2019, 23:53generally tank back vinyl sheets are either put on with a mild soap and water solution or an adhesive stick .never heaard of oil and i don't understand how they expect that to work

I've seen it on other websites, and on youtube. Didn't know what to try first (soap/water or oil), but I had oil handy and gave it a go. Not a success. Live and learn.

Hello,
I've found just easier to deal with to paint black with a small roller. Using only water base paint. Less of a mess, unless you want to have it as a display tank. Maybe use duck tape, using only about .25" width of tape.
M. Ortiz

Wouldn't water based paint rinse off from drops of tank water?

In my world, duck tape and pond liner or metal paint. I've found nothing else that looks good after 5 years.

HTH,

Jools

The first tank I painted I used one part epoxy paint I had originally pirchased to "waterproof" the wooden boxes I built to hold power compact lights. I can second the use of the smaller roller. That paint stayed on that tank for over a decade. What finally dislodged it was leaving the tank outdoors over a very cold winter. I still have the tank and it still holds water fine.

A number of years later I wanted to paint another tank and could not find the same paint. At that time I switched to water based paint. However, I chose exterior paint. The reason is simple, if it doesn't run off a house when it rains, it wont run off a tank either once it has dried. But it has a weakness that the one part epoxy did not.

The epoxy dried hard and was not easy to chip or scratch. The acrylic is the reverse. When i set up the first tank it did not take long before the little tab on the AquaClear motor which also works to tilt the filter a bit forward so it cannot overflow from the back. Moving the filter resulted in that tab scraping the paint off the glass. I also used the same type of acrylic paint for my in wall 75 gal. and so far the AC 300 has not caused a problems because I am very careful having learned the hard way.

The other problem is that most paint does not adhere well to smooth glass, I had to use 2+ coats to get good coverage. The problem with epoxy paint is it is difficult to find in a quart size and a gallon costs over $100. Also, I could not find it in a matte finish which is the least reflective/shiny.

Metal paint... Hmmm.

In the USA, could I use Rust-o-leum brand spray paint for metal surfaces?

Cheers, Eric

Hi Eric,

I did use spray on metal paint and was initially annoyed it had bubbles in it. But, after it dried it looked really good as a background. However, most I've used this paint. The technique is to put the tank on a bench (origianlly did in the garden but bug strike became an issue) use a spirit level to ensure flat (if this paint runs it gets bad). Paint one pane only. Once it's bone dry, and not in any way tacky, paint the next pane. It's gloopy, drippy stuff, so any movement, unlevel surface etc will result in frustration.

That said, ten years later and in some cases 18 years and three fishrooms later the darn stuff is still on!

Jools

Thanks Jools!

Cheers, Eric

My taks are painted with paint for wood - but it does not attach very well to glass either, and thus the surface should be flat.