
yeah, siluris slipped away a bit....
Synodontis 'petricola dwarf' is a notorious plant nibbler! I wondered wich fish always perforated the new shoots of Vallisneria gigantea, until I cought my 6 "'S p d's'" in the act....
They also releaved me of most of the pensil- or paintbrush algae, and you should see them, when I feed peas or spinache....
I haven't got any Giant Valli's in the Tangtank anymore, but since I switched from Lamprologines to Tropheus (and thus have to feed more veggo-stuff) they absolutely thrive!
Another voracious algae- and plant nibbler is S contractus. They can clean a tank as well as any bristlenose or S pleurops. sad to know they are so rare in the trade, for this gentle, small African algae-cleaner would make a great pleco-replacement in African riverine setups. And contrary to S pleurops, they stay small; 7-8 cm or so.
A few plants suitable for Tangtanks, and syno-setups:
-Giant Vallisneria (if you feed the Syno's some greens, of course!)
-Javafern (microsorium pteropus); this plant needs to be attached to rockwork or bogwood; it's a submerged Epiphyte.
-most Cryptocorynes; easiest to keep: C affinis, C wendti de wit, C nevelli, C ponterifolia
-Javamoss (vesicularia), another wall-carpet plant (epiphyte)
-Oakleaf fern (Ceratopteris cornuta, C talictroides etc). This plant is softleafed, and they can eat it, but on the other hand; it's a fast growing plant, and burns away much nitrates. It needs much light, but it floats, so usually it's close to it anyway.
-Lemna (Duckweed) another great nutrient destroyer, like Hornworth. A 'mix' of these two I keep in most breeding tanks as hide-out for baby fish and floating cover (and watercleaner)
African plants!:
-Anubias sp; all Anubias need little light, and are hardy, thus excellent 'catfishtank-plants'! Slow growers with hard leaves. The only drawback is, they need to grow on rocks or wood to thrive. When stuck in the substrate, they rot easily; as they are 'submerged Epiphytes' and their roots need to be surrounded by water for the better part. Those roots usually are green as well.. On the other hand; if you have -like me- those PURpanels on the insides of your tank, you can stick them to it, using pieces of wooden cocktail sticks. You can carpet the back and sides of the tank in a densely leafed forest doing so. My "S p d's" use this 'Anubias forest' to spawn....Baby syno's can find refuge in it.
-Crinum natans and C calamistratum. These are plants for a BIG tank. A single Crinum can eat away as much nitrates and phosphates as a medium sized biofilter, and they're next to indestructable. They need ample light (C natans) or less (C calamistratum). These DO need to be planted well in the substrate, and sand is better than grit; they're adapted to rooting ferm in sandy riverbottoms, and their rootwork looks almost like wire..
-Nymphea lotus. Like the Crypto's, this plant has silicates in it's leaves, making it inedable for most fish. It gets, big, needs to be rooted securely, but it's a looker; very beautiful.
-Hydrilla verticillata (native Riftlake waterpest). This fast growing, messy plant does well in harder water, as it is native to Malawi and Tanganyika both. It needs much light, but aside from that, dead easy and strong too.
-Vallisneria cf spiralis; thrives in the same environment; there's a corkscrew variety native to Tang and Malawi. They do best with a little ferro-fertilizer now and then. This doesn't hurt the fish.