Expedicion Tres Fronteras

[Shane]

You are about to read a very strange "article." I have been sitting on the hundreds and hundreds of e-mails exchanged between Jools, Justin (Whitepine) and myself as we planned our 2006 Amazon fish collecting expedition (Expedicion Tres Fronteras). I have planned for years to sit down go through them, edit them for flow and information and turn them into an article to document all the planning that goes into this type of extended fish collecting trip into the jungle.

My plan is to work on the article "live" by putting it together through a series of forum postings. When it is finally put to paper, as it is, we can move it to the Shane's World section of PC. As it comes together please feel free to post comments, suggestions, or anything else.
Enjoy,
-Shane

[Shane]

Expedicion Tres Fronteras
by
Julian "Jools" Dignall, Justin Whitepine, and Shane Linder


1 Nov 2005
Are we still all OK for 6-16th Jan and when can I start buying flights etc? Shane will know I like to concern myself about all things that are probably well in hand, but I just thought I should kind of pick this up again as it's all gone a bit quiet.
Jools

3 Nov 2005
Contacted Joel who is a former collector in Leticia. Trying to see if he is available. I have spousal and work clearances.
Shane

3 Nov 2005
Excellente - me too and new digi cam arrived yesterday too.
Jools

12 Nov 2005
It looks like I might not be able to make it down to the amazon... I thought I had a flight booked using my airmiles... but it looks like it fell through. I will see if I can get a deal on a ticket this week. I will keep you posted.
Justin

15 Nov 2005
Did you get your air travel figured out? if so, what are your travel dates and times?
Justin

15 Nov 2005
I have my old boss in Bogota working the dates for tickets to Leticia. He was to get back to me today, but I am still down (4 days now) with this damn flu. I should have firm dates by weds/thurs. Sorry, but this flu is kicking my ass and, even worse, I am in quarantine in my own house for fear of getting the baby sick.
Shane

15 Nov 2005
I too have the Flu... if that's what you want to call it. Beth had it for over a week and I just had the last two days off.. and laid around.. because I was to damn sick. Did watch all of the lord of the rings(extended versions) and starwars episides Revenge of the sith and the following(3-6) in order. And yes my ass is sore from all that sitting around!
It looks like my flight will arrive in Bogata around 9 pm on the 6th. I haven't bought the ticket yet... but will get it this weekend unless something better comes up.
Justin

17 Nov 2005
OK, I almost feel back in the Amazon where the absurd is normal.... I finally heard back from Joel. He is ill (did not say with what) and needs money for medical treatment. He says he will cut me a first rate deal in Jan. if I can help him out now. I am trying to find out what is wrong and what he needs.
I am hoping it is not something serious as he is my first choice since 1) he worked as a collector in the past for a big outfit, 2) he knows something about fish and 3) is honest and a hard worker. I know two other guides down there but neither is a fish guy. One is a drunk and the other a bit greedy. Any preferences as to which?
I'll keep you guys updated. Worst case scenario I say we arrive w/o a guide and put out our feelers down there. I can also hit Diego (in Bogota) up for some names. We can contract by the day and that way get rid of anyone that does not work out. It is just a big help logistically to have someone else responsible for the boat, fuel, food, and beer.
Shane

17 Nov 2005
Joel was bitten by a snake in the jungle, but it took him too long to get out and get the anti-venom. Now he needs additional medications that will cost $300.
I am tempted to send him some of the money. This guy did lose half of his thumb to a caribe last time he was with me and he stuck out the rest of the trip. Seems wrong to let the guy suffer for what most of us would spend on a dinner and a couple concert tickets. I'll take care of it.
Shane

19 Nov 2005
If it's appropriate, I can donate $100 to the cause. A reliable dude is a good thing and I see it as part of his overall payment.
Jools

What followed at this point were about 30 e-mails as we all tried to sort out flight schedules and arrival times. Keep in mind Justin was coming from Seattle, Jools from Edinburgh and Shane from Mexico City.

[Shane]

4 Dec 2005
I'm booked!!!!
Basically Edinburgh to Newark to Bogota and arrive 30 minutes before Justin and back the same way on the 17th which means Justin and I will be on the same flight out (one less trip to the airport). You guys want to send me your flight details, phone numbers and that kind of stuff and I will put it all in one document and email it out?
Just got to get my malaria tabs sorted and we're off!
Jools

4 Dec 2005
I'll get my ticket sorted out today. We have multiple lodging options (in Bogota). We could do a hotel, but my buddy Mo has offered us free lodging. He lives by the Zona Rosa, so we can walk to the pubs and it is a 15 minute cab ride to the fish district. Any reason you guys would prefer a hotel over staying a night at Mo's house?
Shane

5 Dec 2005
Here's my actual Itinerary....
I can't wait... I think this is going to be much better than Christmas!
Justin

Ed note: With travel dates and flights all sorted out, we start planning the actual trip...

6 Dec 2005
Some things I was thinking about doing:
1) Need to find out what days/times the large pims come in from the commercial fishermen. This will likely be VERY early in the am. Great chance to get those photos of us holding REALLY big cats.
2) Rent Motos and cruise the Leticia environs just out of town. Could be a very cheap way to stumble on small creeks and pools nearby that are loaded with fishes.
3) Make some commercial collector contacts and maybe spend a day collecting with them.
4) Visit some commercial collectors to photo their facilities.
5) An afternoon on the docks with some cold beers and small fishing poles. I have seen kids down there pulling up some neat pims and doradids with just line, hook, and bait. Relax and catch some neat stuff to photo. Visit with others fishermen and photo their catches. Good way to catch stuff that is deeper than you could with a seine.
Other ideas?
Shane

12 Dec 2005
Ed Note: Jools created a neat document for each of us to fill out with all our important personal data. Copies were stored at each member of the expedition's home with family member and a digital copy was maintained by us as a back up if all documents should be lost or stolen.

Slightly updated document, can you add in or supply your contact details etc. If you want me to centrally record anything else like home address, passport number or whatever you think might be useful, just let me know.
Auntie Jools

16 Dec 2005
For the contact cell number I was looking for a number we should call each other on while in transit or abroad generally.
Jools

ed note: Jools is ever the early adopter. In 2005 Justin and Shane replied to this e-mail stating that neither of them had a cellphone.

17 Dec 2005
Well, not much point in that then as I won't be able to call either of you! HAd my Hep B booster today - oh joy.
Jools

17 Dec 2005
I am just thinking of items I need to bring( besides the basics of clothes, bug stuff, etc....). Will I need to bring anything for collecting? Any ideas? Other suggestions?
Justin

19 Dec 2005
Hey guys,
Needed to start a new thread as the old one was at like 55 messages.
Did some inventory today.
Remember, the flight to Leticia only allows 22 Kilos of gear each.
Collecting gear...
I have the following:

(Action Shane) One 16 foot seine (this has double weights and floaters). It will be useless in many places, but on a clear sand/mud beach, it should really clean up.

(Action Shane) One 12 foot seine. Good size for general collecting.

(Action Justin) I have two 4 foot seine, but there are getting worn. Justin, can you look into picking up two 4 footers? Try to get nylon (usually black) as the cotton/hemp ones (they are usually brown) get heavy and wear out fast. If Cotton/hemp are all that are available get them since they probably will not come back with us anyway.

(Action Shane) I have a very nice large folding dip net for leaf litter.

(Action Jools) We could use 2-3 various size small-med dip nets for sorting catch, photo tank use, etc.

(Action Jools) Jools, still have your good photo tank? If not let me know and I will pack one.

(Action ?) Anyone bringing a laptop? It will be a lot of extra weight, but we could all probably share one to download photos daily and free up memory on the cameras.

(Action Shane) I will bring various bags and rubberbands

(Action ?) Some "Bag Buddies" would be useful.

(Action all) Each of us should bring a small bottle of Stresscoat and Ammonia Lock, or similar, to treat during water changes and holding.

(Action Shane) Clear plastic ruler (inches and cm) for photo scale.

(Action all) Notebook/journal for field notes.

(Action ?) If anyone wants to bring some small test kits for taking water conditions. Maybe just a box of those little pH strips?

(Action all) Cameras, memory mediums, and charging device/batteries.

(Action all in Leticia) Purchase shallow plastic buckets and plastic water bottles for fish transport/maintenance. Also, can use the clean water for drinking and the photo tank.

(Action all) I will be bringing a small micro-lite rod and reel. I'll also pack extra hooks and line for some fishing. Bring a small telescoping rod if you have one. We can drink beers and fish off the docks one or more evenings. It would also be cool to see what we get at night on them.

Personal gear...

You guys have both packed for plenty of trips, so I do not mean to sound like a Mom. The thing to keep in mind is basically not to bring anything that you would not want to leave behind.

Shoes: One pair collecting. One pair comfortable for town/city use

Socks:

Undies: I really like the new Ex-Officio quick dry boxer briefs, but they are expensive. Remember you will go through lots of undies as you will not want to wear the wet ones from collecting all day that same night.

Belt:

Pants: I like the zip off kind. Zip off to collect, zip on to stop the bitting bugs. Remember a pair or two for town/city use.

Shorts:

Shirts: Old T-shirts are great, but the sleeves do not roll down when the bugs come out and they are hard to wash in the sink and have them come very clean. I have taken to a combo of T-shirts and quick dry Orvis or Ex-Officio type jungle shirts. Remember a couple shirts for town/city use.

Super cool jungle hat.

Bandana: Wipes off sweat and mud and can keep a sunburnt neck safe.

Water proof container: I have a small one that connects to my belt and can hold some keys, cash, ID, etc on me.

Sun glasses:

First Aid:
I will pack a high speed First Aid kit.
I suggest the following stuff at a minimum

Ammodium AD
Pepto tablets
Tums
Sunscreen
Aspirin/Motrin
Some Band Aids
Bug Spray (like it does anything)
Anti itch cream (helps you sleep)
Anti fungal cream
Anti infection wipes
chapstick

Any special medications you may need.
Shot records. I have never been asked for them ever in any country, but better to have them on hand if possible.
I am sure there is more, but I think I hit on most of the big stuff.
Shane

[Shane]

19 Dec 2005
I will pick up 2 four foot seines. I will also pick up some test strips. I also have large breather bags(like 30) that I can bring. I will also bring my underwater case along with my camera!
Should I bring a snorkel and mask?
Justin

19 Dec 2005
Morning Jungle Blokes,
I will arrange dip nets and I have built a new photo tank that will take larger fish but might also be an idea to bring the small one I left in Venezuela if you still have it.

I need to bring my laptop as I will be dumping pics onto it daily. You are both welcome to use it, it is a windows XP laptop and so any standard USB lead to camera connection should work fine. I am happy to later burn your pics on to CD and mail out. My new camera holds about 120 pics per card and at 4Mb each, I have no sensible option other
than to bring a laptop. We also might be able to swing an upload of a few pics mid trip just to make the stay-at-home crew green.

The camera / laptop however makes it imperative I get a working power converter and I plan to bring 5.

I also plan to bring a suitcase (on wheels) to Bogota, do you see any issue with this - should I revert to my large size rucksac?

Could I also suggest a towel or two to the list of things to bring, they should be reasonably light but great for packing in your day bag to ensure kit doesn't explode, wiping sweat, portable dinner table, cleaning photo tanks and as respite for patches of bare skin from the sun if no other device is available.
Jools

19 Dec 2005
Good suggestions from both of you. I am going to bring mask and snorkel as I want to explore some of the "lakes" and these might, with some luck, be fairly clear. We will all cry if we hit a patch of clear water and have no masks. Towel... always travel with a towel!
Jools, I see no problem with the suitcase. Just remember that 22 KG limit.
I'll update the fishy packing list and continue to add to it as we think of things.
Shane

21 Dec 2005
Hotel rooms are booked. I have Jools booked for a single and Justin and Shane for a double. I like the idea of two rooms in case one person gets ill or something and needs some down time. As it turns out, there is really no money saved by sharing a room (savings are US $4.00 per day). I am sure we can easily rearrange accomodations after arrival if we wish. The hotel did not sound very full on the phone.

Hotel Anaconda (Livin' it up at the Hotel Anaconda...Such a lovely place, such a lovely place)
Carrera 11 Number 7-34
Leticia, Colombia
57859-27119 or 27891 or 27274

I sent off cables today to the US Embassies in Brasilia, Lima, and Bogota with our contact information in Bogota and Leticia and our planned whereabouts.
Shane

25 Dec 2005
Merry Christmas Dudes!
On my second bottle of champers and just fired up the laptop! Christmas day going very well at Dignall towers - hope you both twoare having a great day too. Clare says hi and seasons greetings.
Anyway, attached is an updated panic document. I'll try to get the trap organised but it'll be touch and go if it arrives. Anyone bringing reference books? No point in doubling those up.
Jools

25 Dec 2005
Merry Christmas Bros!
Erica got a full set of "Chef Quality" cookware and is having fun whiping up Xmas omelets.
Shane got a 5 meg Sealife underwater digital camera (yes!)
Sofia opened her presents, sucked on each one a bit, and decided nothing tasted better than her own fist.

I was not planning on bringing books because they get so tore up in the field. The one that I could see using a lot would be a good cory guide. There are many, many very similar spp. where we will be.
Wishing you two and your better halves a very Merry Xmas.
Shane
PS Anyone else strating to get excited?
PPS Got responses from Lima, Bogota, and Brasilia and we have contact names and numbers in all three embassies in case of problems. They also have all our names in case one of you needs to call.

25 Dec 2005
I got two new L number books... and a Large gift card to REI... so I can load up on last minute items for this trip. I ordered two minnow seines that should get here middle of next week. Is anyone bringing a camera tripod?
Justin

[Shane]

About this time Justin drew up a logo and had shirts made for us all. Very cool!

[Jools]

The flight I took was from Edinburgh, Scotland, UK to Newark, NJ, USA and then down to Bogotá, Colombia. I am quite a frequent flyer and this is the first time we had to set down (in another country) because we were running out of fuel.

An unusually strong headwind meant we stopped in Panama City for a refuel. I recall taxing along the runway after landing at night and seeing the bright lights of a Texaco filling station come towards us. It was only after a few concerned moments that I realised this was on a road outside the airport and wasn't, in fact, where we'd stopped to refuel.

Jools

[grokefish]

Lol at that ^^^^^

I would love to do something like this, I could die happy if I did.

[Shane]

New Years day, and planning continues...


1 Jan 2006
Can either (or even both) of you score some of those new breathable bags?
Shane

1 Jan 2006
What size and how many? I am planning on bringing down about 40 11.5x19 (over a gallon) and 60 4x8. They of course will need to be doubled up ( These would carry about 35 gallons of water doubled up). It should be enough for most of the fish. I don't know of anywhere locally that carries the breather bags.
I am also planning on bringing just some large plastic bags for when we are collecting. I was going to use the breather bags for shipping home.
If You Think we need more, email me asap and I will have some shipped priority on Monday.
Justin

1 Jan 2006
If you could get some, it would be ideal. There is an article about them in the newest TFH. The author says he has kept fish in them for up to two weeks and knows people that have kept Discus in them for a month. Since O2 takes up 3/4 of a normal bag, the bags are only 1/4 the size of normal bags when packed.
They also have a fish printed on them. I know it sounds silly, but you look a lot less like a drug runner when the bags have little fishies on them.
Kordons makes them. I can find lots of articles talking about their use, but none selling them.
Shane

3 Jan 2006
Started some early packing tonight.

Fish packing list:
one 12 foot seine
one 16 foot seine
one folding large dipnet
Jools' old photo tank
Thermometer
Clear ruler (metric and inches)
Stresscoat and Ammo Lock
Assorted fish bags
Telescoping rod w/ reel
Assorted hooks and small lures
Jools,
Anythought on when we should start a thread on PC?
Shane

3 Jan 2006
I ordered 100 7.5"x12" breather bags for you. I had them shipped next day air, I should get them Thursday the latest. These are a great size for most fish... and I will also have some larger one too.
I have most of my packing done.. besides the smaller stuff. I am thinking of bringing a drybag for cameras and what not. Do I need to bring a mosquito net?
Justin

3 Jan 2006
Thanks Justy! You should certainly bring a plastic/dry bag for any electronics. Doubtful it will rain, but better safe than sorry. You will not need a mosquito net.
Shane

4 Jan 2006
I can forward my final packing list if you guys are interested. Love to see yours too in case I missed anything.
Shane
PS, We are in trouble. Mo leaves for Pakistan a couple days after we see him. His words about the night of the 6th were, "Do not plan on sleeping."

4 Jan 2006
Yes, your packing list would help as I plan to all but finish it tonight. Back to work today but my assistant is off until next week, so am planning on swanning around my office checking things and working on the site. Very little official work hopefully!
Heh, well my alcohol tolerance is up a bit due to the time of year, I thought I was going to the Amazon to get away from all that!
I planned to take a photograph of my stuff all laid out, will send that.
Jools

[Jools]

I planned to take a photograph of my stuff all laid out, will send that.

You are looking at (top of bed to right, down a row, left to right roughly.).

Camera Bag (top left), meds (imodium, aspirin, paracetamol, potable water tabs).

Head torch, hook and line (UK=crab fishing, Amazon=Doradids & Pims), power block

Travel adapters, Germoline, deodorant.

Batteries, snorkel & mask, phototank (+ hand nets), linen towel for wiping tank dry.

Jools

[wrasse]

This thread is excellent!!!

[JoePlec]

Brilliant read so far. Cant wait for next addition

[wrasse]

doo bee dooooo.....?
pregnant pause... is this the bit where you were all held and questioned for about a month or so in Lima airport?

[Viktor Jarikov]

Nice and helpful. Now, snorkeling in tropics probably elevates the danger risk a couple of levels to red. It's not just malaria anymore. Would you not be worried about bacteria like leptospirosis (http://hawaii.gov/health/about/reports/ ... ochure.pdf) not to mention certain microscopic and macroscopic parasites that can enter your body through various bodily openings?

[Shane]

pregnant pause... is this the bit where you were all held and questioned for about a month or so in Lima airport?

No, no I am just bogged down with upcoming national elections on 18 Feb and have not been online much. Many apologies to those following this story.

not to mention certain microscopic and macroscopic parasites that can enter your body through various bodily openings?

Here is a true fact. I have lived and collected in South America, Central America and Africa for the last 11 years and have never once contracted an ailment, of any sort, directly from my activities collecting fishes. Plenty of bruises, cuts, and sunburns but never anything worse. I had a horrible bout with Dengue fever (breakbone fever) in Venezuela but doubt it had anything o do with collecting directly. I have also suffered many, many nasty stomach ailments but those were more likely related to local foods and drinks than collecting. In fact I often joke that my final memoirs will be published as "Sunrises from the Toilet Seat; My Adventures in the Third World."
To paraphrase PJ O'Rourke... Anyone afraid of globalism clearly has not used the bathroom in a foreign country recently.
-Shane

[RickE]

Anyone afraid of globalism clearly has not used the bathroom in a foreign country recently.
-Shane

How true. Mombasa police station (!) and Khartoum airport are two public ones that will haunt my memories for ever.

[Shane]

4 Jan 2006
Jools' Packing List
Camera
Lenses
Power
Batteries
Backup batteries
Emergency batteries
USB lead to PC
Memory cards

Laptop
Power for Laptop

Drugs
Anti malarial
Sun lotion
After sun
Anti bug spray
Anti itch / after bite soothers
Imodium
Self adhesive plasters
Antiseptic cream

Assorted
Head torch + battery
Power block
Power converter (+ backup x2)
Dip nets
Photo tank
Photo tank cloth
Snorkel and Mask

Clothes
3 pairs quick dry combats with shorts
1 quick dry Shane shirt
5 t-shirts
Pants & sox x4
Trainers for getting wet, muddy, lost
Decent trainers
Collecting Hat

BTW, Do we have a "get to Bogota and Shane isn't there" plan? How long
should we wait and what is the best bet after that? I realize this is
a most unlikely event.

PS Stoked and "in the jungle zone" as Clare puts it.

-Jools

5 Jan 2006

I will set out the plan tonight. Erica and I have discussed it. Actually, my real worry is that something will hang up one of you since I will just have a simple direct flight. Worse case, those there will just have to wait for the last one.
-Shane

5 Jan 2006

Clothes:
I am bringing 2 shirts for Bogota wear (i.e. not T Shirts or jungle shirts) and 2 pairs of pants. My shoes are one pair collecting and one pair of hiking boots for city/town wear.

Shoes: 2, collecting and lightweight hikers
Socks
2 pairs Pants (light weight)
2 pairs zip off Pants
Swimming Trunks (hotel pool, sweet chlorine clense this body)
2 pairs Shorts (day collecting, Leticia day use)
Underpants
Belt
5 T shirts
5 quick dry Shirts
2 passable city Shirts
Hat
Sunglasses
Bandana

Socks, underpants, shorts and T shirts may get some hotel sink washings if necessary.

Fish
16 foot seine
12 foot seine
large dip net
Jools' old photo tank
Thermometer
ruler
ammo lock
Stress coat
Bags
One battery operated pump
Mask (in case we get lucky with some clear water)
Fishing pole and gear

-Shane

5 Jan 2006

Here's my packing list: Also note: I will have a Quick dry T-shirt for both of you... so you might want to leave one T at home.

__Shoes: One pair collecting. One pair comfortable for town/city use
__Socks: 5 pair quick dry or wool
__Undies: at least 6 pair
__Belt:
__Pants: 2 zip off one for city Three total
__Shorts: One pair for swimming
__T-Shirts: 3 quick dry, 2 more for town
__Long sleeve shirts 2
__jungle hat.
__Bandana
__Dry bags x2
__Sun glasses
__First Aid: Ammodium AD, Pepto tablets,Sunscreen, Aspirin/Motrin, Band Aids, Bug Spray, Anti itch cream , Anti infection wipes, chapstick
__medications and malaria pills
__Shot records
__Pass ports
__Seines 4x6, 4x8
__ fishing rod, reel, forceps and tackle
__Camera, batteries, flash cards, h2o case.
__Breather bags, stress coat, test strips.
__mask and snorkel
__head lamp x 2, extra batteries.
__Rain jacket—
__Camera bag/small backpack

Hopefully I didn't forget anything. Let me know if you guys see anything I missed.

-Justin

[Shane]

5 Jan 2006
Bogota contact instructions:

Shane: Arrives Bogota 6 Jan at 1955 on Mexicana 393
Jools: Arrives Bogota 6 Jan at 2100 on CO881
Justin: Arrives Bogota 6 Jan at 2137 on CO883

All: Depart Bogota 7 Jan at 0955 on P57481

Mo and Jean's address
Calle 90 Number XXXXX
Apt. 401
Home: 236-XXXX

I doubt we will arrive at Mo's before 2230 hours.

We all return to Bogota on 15 Jan (Sunday) at 1155. Should show up at Ben's by 1330 or so.

Brother Ben has offered his place to us on return. Mo and Jean offered as well, but I do not want to lean on anyone too much and Mo will be gone to the sandbox by the time we return.

Ben House
Carrera 6 Number XXXX
Apt. 701
Cell: 315-895-XXXX

Since there are very few link up opportunities, those of us that arrive in Bogota will wait at the airport for anyone that does not arrive as scheduled. Flights into Bogota cease at around 2200 hours, so if anyone is not there by 2300 hours we can figure they will be in the next morning, hopefully by 0955 to catch the Leticia flight. I will try to wait inside the airport, but I do not remember any place there to wait. If I am not in the airport when you arrive and pass through immigration, continue outside to the huge crowd and look for the tall handsome gringo.
-Shane

6 Jan 2006

Hey gents, glad to have you guys stop by. as you all know tomorrow is my last day at the office and the boys want to put back a few drinks so i expect we will be at the whisky house in the zona "T" (Bernie's new place right next to the Irish pub - Shane knows this place well !!!), when you arrive. What I plan to do is have you guys drop off your bags at my building with the doorman and then proceed to the Bar in order to enjoy some tasty drinks!!! How does this sound with you all?

-Moe

6 Jan 2006

See you there my precious Moisha!
-Shane

This was the last e-mail sent.

[Shane]

Bogota and first day in Leticia on the Colombian/Brasilian border.

[Shane]

Day 4 we nearly lost Jools during a violent pleco feeding frenzy.

[Shane]

After 8 days in the Amazon...