Fishroom in 10m²: how to arrange

[kiwidu21]

Good morning,

I currently have a small room to integrate my aquariums. The problem is that I'm having trouble with the layout.
Currently the room contains 10 aquariums. I don't intend to keep them all.
The fishroom will be mainly dedicated to maintenance with the possibility of reproduction. I don't want to breed on a large scale, just raise a few youngsters from time to time.
The species currently in the fishroom and which will remain there are:
corydoras habrosus
corydoras aeneus
corydoras paleatus (not sure about keeping them)
corydoras duplicareus
panda corydoras
corydoras reticulatus
platydoras armatulus (may go in the living room tank)
synodontis hybrids (there are 20 of them)
Synodontis nigriventris
hypancistrus delibittera l129

In terms of tank, I would like the corys to be one tank per species, between 80 and 120 liters each.
I would ideally like to keep my 300 liters (150 x 40 x 50) in which the platydoras will eventually stay.
I keep my 160l tank with the emerged part which accommodates my synodontis nigriventris (102 x 42 x 72, no need to provide space above the tank).
I would also ideally like to keep the 350l corner aquarium that hosts my hybrid synodontis (https://www.juwel-aquarium.de/fr/aquari ... on-350-led). Otherwise it will take an equivalent in terms of volume (not necessarily of the same shape).
I would also need 3 to 4 tanks of about 30 liters because I also have shrimp.

To be integrated into the fishroom, a fairly large tank for a Synodontis granulosus reproduction project. I was thinking of leaving on a tray long enough to be able to separate it into two or even three in case of concern.

Regarding the room, it measures 3.30 meters on the window side and 3.18 meters on the other side. I am attaching the plan of the room. I specify that the small wall on the door side can be removed but I have the water inlets of the house behind which takes up a little space.

It's my spouse who builds the shelves so I'm pretty free on that. On the filtration side, no settling. I mainly think of filtering on an external filter (type jbl, eheim) or cascade filter. The aquariums will also be homemade so the choice of dimensions is completely free.

How would you arrange this room?



The tank of synodontis nigriventris

[Jools]

What height is the ceiling?

Jools

[kiwidu21]

2.46 meters sorry

[Jools]

Here's my fishroom 3.0. I'd say you could do this with your room around the outside. Maybe put a sink under the window if I understand the layout.

Jools

[kiwidu21]

It is indeed this kind of fishroom that I would like.
Currently it is like this:

Photo taken from the door:


Photo taken from the window:


To give you an idea, here is a model I made:



I could possibly add a floor on the shelf of the large bin. I would not have against a reinforcement which would pass in the middle and which will not necessarily be aesthetic.
dimensions of the large bin: 300 x 80 x 70 cm (1680 liters)
I hesitate to remove 50 cm in length to insert the pump on the side of the tank.
dimensions of the small tanks: 66 x 45 x 40 cm (118 liters)

Placing a sink towards the window might be possible. On the other hand, the radiator below the window should be able to do its job. We have planned to install a reversible air conditioning but I don't know when that will be.

What do you think of sustainability?
Does this fishroom seem practical to you?

[aquaholic]

If you would like advice from someone who has kept fish rooms large and small for over forty years;

I would get rid of all your existing tanks and stands so you can design with a clean slate. I would cover your window with 20mm polystyrene sheet which allows light in but insulates so you can rack tanks accross the window. Many fish will spawn at first light so align breeding tanks for such species accordingly. Similarly many fish species reproductive cycles will shut down or start up with photoperiod length (seasons).

If you start breeding fish, you generally require three times growout space to breeding especially if you want to separate species and separate batches of same species. You will get much better growth rates and faster throughput if you can grow fish of similar size & mouth gape. (Less aggression and uniform competition). Additionally much less time and effort spent feeding harvesting and sorting.

Growout tanks do not require the same water depth or observation as conditioning & spawning tanks. These can be shallow tanks racked up high out of the way. Some things that I would do (which may not suit your fish keeping style):
* Rack 90cm long tanks end on along one long wall. Fish will come up to the front end for food & interaction so easily viewed yet retire to the back for privacy and breeding. The behavioral change for either is an obvious que for closer inspection.
* Try to keep standard size tanks which are cheaper to buy, simpler to source and easier to resell later.
* Drill an overflow drain hole in each tank so you can implement central filtration or auto water change if you want to keep tanks separate. I run several corydoras racks and breeding behavior in one tank does set of breeding in other linked corydoras tanks. I also flood feed live artemia through my water pumps to all tanks.
* Rack as many level /tiers as you can - while you are building. Not all tanks have to be the same height but it does make tank volume calculations easier if each tier has the same. There is nothing wrong with having some tanks without fish. Extra water volume (if central filtered) provides more dilution of waste, more thermal mass and more stable conditions.
* I would rack the other long wall with 60cm length tanks end out. As many as you can. This will give you ca meter between tanks.
* I would set up live food cultures, net rack and hatching tanks on a short vertical shelving on the short wall without door. Unfortunately your room is too small to include fridge, microscope, sink/tap and resource books but perhaps these could be elsewhere? In your fish fridge, place food above your medications so they can't get contaminated. An unplugged fridge makes an excellent insulated rodent proof food store if you buy in bulk.
* Use POST-IT notes instead of writing on fish tanks. These can be moved with the fish when transferring accross
* Insulate the fish room. Less noise and temperature fluctuations/humidity swings are best for inside and outside the fish room (unless you live alone).
* A skylight or solar tube for natural light if possible. If your not using substrate, cut out the polystyrene base (unless your using those plastic trimmed tanks) so light can reach through all tank tiers
* Consider an outward opening or sliding door if space is tight.
* I build my own tanks so I use sliding lids which saves time, space and breakages. On growout tanks, no lids required.
* If your tanks will be kept separate (individual filters), use higher polystyrene strips along the back than front so your front glass is 5mm lower. Any overflows will affect the front first and be more obvious sooner.
* use steel racks if possible. You can make fine adjustments with a hydraulic car jack without having to pull everything tank down.
* If you do use steel racks, put a 10mm plastic packer under each leg to keep them feet dry in case of floods.

That's probably enough for now. No shortage of fish room information online these days.

[kiwidu21]

Growout tanks do not require the same water depth or observation as conditioning & spawning tanks. These can be shallow tanks racked up high out of the way. Some things that I would do (which may not suit your fish keeping style):
* Rack 90cm long tanks end on along one long wall. Fish will come up to the front end for food & interaction so easily viewed yet retire to the back for privacy and breeding. The behavioral change for either is an obvious que for closer inspection.

I do not wish to reproduce on a large scale.
I was thinking of making bins 66cm long because they would be placed above the big bin which is 80cm wide. I can enlarge small bins up to 80cm long.

Try to keep standard size tanks which are cheaper to buy, simpler to source and easier to resell later.

The problem with standard size bins in France is that they have little surface area. Something that is not ideal for corydoras and other catfishes in general who prefer to have the surface.
Reselling the bins will not pose a problem whatever their dimensions.
Finding aquariums of the same size is complicated and expensive in France, hence the fact of wanting to make them to measure (I glue the tanks myself).

Drill an overflow drain hole in each tank so you can implement central filtration or auto water change if you want to keep tanks separate. I run several corydoras racks and breeding behavior in one tank does set of breeding in other linked corydoras tanks. I also flood feed live artemia through my water pumps to all tanks.

I couldn't do an automatic water change because I run on rainwater. This system can only be considered when you change house (not for a few years).

Rack as many level /tiers as you can - while you are building. Not all tanks have to be the same height but it does make tank volume calculations easier if each tier has the same. There is nothing wrong with having some tanks without fish. Extra water volume (if central filtered) provides more dilution of waste, more thermal mass and more stable conditions.

I don't really understand this passage, I'm using a translator.
In any case, I would keep between one and three empty bins. They will serve as quarantine bins or emergency bins (in case I have to separate an individual or other).

I would rack the other long wall with 60cm length tanks end out. As many as you can. This will give you ca meter between tanks.

Without a diagram, I admit I have trouble visualizing. What wall are you talking about?

I would set up live food cultures, net rack and hatching tanks on a short vertical shelving on the short wall without door. Unfortunately your room is too small to include fridge, microscope, sink/tap and resource books but perhaps these could be elsewhere? In your fish fridge, place food above your medications so they can't get contaminated. An unplugged fridge makes an excellent insulated rodent proof food store if you buy in bulk.

The food farms are outdoors and entered the garage when the cold season arrives.
The refrigerator that contains food and such is my home refrigerator. The purchase of a smaller one is planned, it will also be arranged in the garage.
For hatching, I was thinking of using breedings which are more practical when not mass breeding.
I don't really see the point of a microscope.
Books are stored in our office away from humidity.

Isolate the fish room. Less noise and temperature/humidity fluctuations are best inside and outside the fish room (unless you live alone).

This is planned but I did not talk about it. The VMC must also be installed.

A skylight or solar tube for natural light if possible. If your not using substrate, cut out the polystyrene base (unless your using those plastic trimmed tanks) so light can reach through all tank tiers

I am planning tanks with substrate and mulm. Lighting will be provided by dimmable led ramps.

Consider an outward opening or sliding door if space is tight.

Opening to the outside is not possible (the corridor is too small). We had indeed thought of the sliding door but we fear that this is not sufficiently soundproof.

If you do use steel racks, put a 10mm plastic packer under each leg to keep them feet dry in case of floods.

The supports will be made of wood with water-repellent paint. Is it OK ?

[aquaholic]

I wasn't suggesting you reproduce on a large scale, as use of glass tanks and your room are much to small.

If your interest in fish remains or grows, you should plan ahead for adding more tanks. Either by rack design, airline supply and plumbing sizes.

I use rainwater tanks too. If the water level in your raintank is higher than the water level in your highest tank, you can automate water change. (Or above the water level of your lowest tank if your using central filtration). A simple drip to displace water out to waste drain does not need electricity, timers, internet or special switches.

Perhaps you can use a heavy plastic strips curtain for door? Or a door sized 40mm sheet of polystyrene that can manually be slide open/closed?

If your using wood for tank stands, use pine not a hardwood. Hardwood is more expensive , harder to work with and will bend/sway with age.

It's good you are making your own tanks. To save vertical space, you can lay a 20mm thick wooden plank directly on glass tanks and place shallow hatching tanks or shrimp tanks on this. Set them back so you can still access the tanks below. (Another reason to have tanks end side out)