hi!
my name is naor, and just recently got familier with the hobby...
i got my tank as a gift from my girlfriend. its a 350L tank, 150*40*60.
inside i have:
4 golden siamese algae-eater
5 Siamese Flying Fox
5 Clown Loach
4 Dwarf Suckers
2 Raphael catfish
1 Asian Bumblebee Cat
1 Royal Pleco
2 Farowella
4 Auratus Cichlid
3 Hybrids from Hongi & Socolofi
i am plannig to move out the auratus and the hybrids. and tomorow i am getting a nice troop of Tropheus Moliro.
it was just a matter of time 'till i found you... and here i am.
Post No.1 - Hello guys...
Post No.1 - Hello guys...
Not always pink, but always a Panther
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Silurus
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You shouldn't mix the Tropheus with the cats and loaches as they have different water requirements (Tropheus needs higher pH than the cats and loaches)
Last edited by Silurus on 23 Jul 2003, 15:33, edited 1 time in total.
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Sid Guppy
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And Tropheus need a lot of algae to chew on, or they get all kinds of internal problems (read: dead Tropheus). Keeping Tropheus with that much algae eaters in one tank is asking for trouble.
Not to mention the fact that they're notoriously nasty and peaceful fish like farlowella, Royal Pleco's, Raphaels and Clownloaches will get chewed upon.
Either combine all those Asian/South American riverines with peaceful riverine fishes like characins, Kribs, Geophagus etc.
Or switch to a Tanganyikan/Malawian tank with either Tropheus/Auratus and Riftlake Synodontis, Lophiobagrus etc as company.
Not to mention the fact that they're notoriously nasty and peaceful fish like farlowella, Royal Pleco's, Raphaels and Clownloaches will get chewed upon.
Either combine all those Asian/South American riverines with peaceful riverine fishes like characins, Kribs, Geophagus etc.
Or switch to a Tanganyikan/Malawian tank with either Tropheus/Auratus and Riftlake Synodontis, Lophiobagrus etc as company.
Plan B should not automatically be twice as much explosives as Plan A
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Silurus
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Sid Guppy
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moliro's shy??
we're talking about this one, right?
actually it's one of THE more active, aggressive species within the speciesgroup Tropheus moori (wich contains T moori, T sp "red" -like moliro's- , T sp Black and T "Ikola" the Kaisermoori)!
Imm not counting T brichardi here, that one is even nastier, or the highly active T polli/annectens. T duboisi is the one wich usually behaves slightly less noxious than the others.
If you got shy ones, or you know someone who has, there's something not exactly right.
i've seen three 2" juvenile moliro's (heathy ones) tearing up 8" Fossochromis rostratus (slow, big longfinned Malawian, wich turned out to be a bad combination, obviously) in a 720 liter mixed Riftlake tank......
and Siluris is right; I've got 13 halfgrown T sp black Rutunga's in a 125G (500 liter) tank, and only the "flattest" algae survive.
To avoid loads of trouble, I took out my breeding pair Ancistrus temmincki when switching to Tropheus.
That single pair kept the tank pristine when the company was tons of Lamprologines, Syno's and Sandcichlids.....
You've got many, many algae eaters in there, catfishes and non-catfish ones.
A fish like Farlowella (wich can't swim at all just wriggle a bit) is completely defenseless against Tropheus (who like to nip fins). only the more mobile fishes do well with Tropheus, and even then; longfinned species or very peaceful ones should be avoided.
Even in lake Tanganyika hundreds of species don't combine well with Tropheus because they're not used to them. All the cichlids (and other fishes) from the sandy or deeper biotopes for example.
we're talking about this one, right?
actually it's one of THE more active, aggressive species within the speciesgroup Tropheus moori (wich contains T moori, T sp "red" -like moliro's- , T sp Black and T "Ikola" the Kaisermoori)!
Imm not counting T brichardi here, that one is even nastier, or the highly active T polli/annectens. T duboisi is the one wich usually behaves slightly less noxious than the others.
If you got shy ones, or you know someone who has, there's something not exactly right.
i've seen three 2" juvenile moliro's (heathy ones) tearing up 8" Fossochromis rostratus (slow, big longfinned Malawian, wich turned out to be a bad combination, obviously) in a 720 liter mixed Riftlake tank......
and Siluris is right; I've got 13 halfgrown T sp black Rutunga's in a 125G (500 liter) tank, and only the "flattest" algae survive.
To avoid loads of trouble, I took out my breeding pair Ancistrus temmincki when switching to Tropheus.
That single pair kept the tank pristine when the company was tons of Lamprologines, Syno's and Sandcichlids.....
You've got many, many algae eaters in there, catfishes and non-catfish ones.
A fish like Farlowella (wich can't swim at all just wriggle a bit) is completely defenseless against Tropheus (who like to nip fins). only the more mobile fishes do well with Tropheus, and even then; longfinned species or very peaceful ones should be avoided.
Even in lake Tanganyika hundreds of species don't combine well with Tropheus because they're not used to them. All the cichlids (and other fishes) from the sandy or deeper biotopes for example.
Plan B should not automatically be twice as much explosives as Plan A
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Barbie
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Not to mention that the tropheus are EXTREMELY active and can stress other fish that are kept with them, just due to the constant frantic motion. I've successfully kept ancistrus with them, but the tank is in direct light and the fish are fed twice a day with a good quality spirulina flake or pellet diet. I definitely wouldn't recommend the more sensitive farlowella's. The golden chinese algae eaters are fish that I never recommend people keep, simply because they don't actually eat algae for most of their lives. The royal pleco being kept in a non peaceful tank is a suggestion I took a roasting for on another board, but even I wouldn't try to keep one with tropheus. They also need large quantities of wood in their diet as they grow, and if your water isn't naturally quite hard and stable, that can affect your pH levels.
My tropheus tanks are basically kept as species tanks. I've mixed them with alright results with rainbows and synos, but it is definitely something that you'd have to realize was a risk, and not the ideal for any of the fish. Ancistrus tend to hide and stay immobile during the day, so the tropheus pretty much ignore them, but the CAE's and SAE's are going to basically act as target fish, IMO.
Hope that helps,
Barbie
My tropheus tanks are basically kept as species tanks. I've mixed them with alright results with rainbows and synos, but it is definitely something that you'd have to realize was a risk, and not the ideal for any of the fish. Ancistrus tend to hide and stay immobile during the day, so the tropheus pretty much ignore them, but the CAE's and SAE's are going to basically act as target fish, IMO.
Hope that helps,
Barbie
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Sid Guppy
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If you already bought the Tropheus, how many moliro's did you get? They only do well in big groups, because otherwise you'll end up with a single one (at least 8, or better 12)
because you might turn Tang, it's not bad at all, except for the Panaque and the Farlowella wich are both very fine cats.
there are still quite some fishes that can be kept with Tropheus, and look fine.
To give you a few clues, some names, check 'm out:
Eretmodus, Julidochromis, Altolamprologus, Chalinochromis, Telmatochromis; all cavebrooders that dwell in pairs or harums.
Synodontis; best choice for a Tropheustank is S "petricola dwarf"; it eats quite a bit of algae and does fine on "Tropheus-diet"; great looking too.
With a bit of feeding discipline Synodontis polli, S "polli white",Lophiobagrus etc all fit in, as well as Cyprichromis sp, a shoaling cichlid.
Mixing Lake fish can be done (with some Malawians), but choose smaller, active ones with a bit of attitude themselves and the same feeding habits (aufwuchs eaters too), like Labeotropheus, Pseudotropheus lombardoi, maylandia estherae, Melanochromis etc.
because you might turn Tang, it's not bad at all, except for the Panaque and the Farlowella wich are both very fine cats.
there are still quite some fishes that can be kept with Tropheus, and look fine.
To give you a few clues, some names, check 'm out:
Eretmodus, Julidochromis, Altolamprologus, Chalinochromis, Telmatochromis; all cavebrooders that dwell in pairs or harums.
Synodontis; best choice for a Tropheustank is S "petricola dwarf"; it eats quite a bit of algae and does fine on "Tropheus-diet"; great looking too.
With a bit of feeding discipline Synodontis polli, S "polli white",Lophiobagrus etc all fit in, as well as Cyprichromis sp, a shoaling cichlid.
Mixing Lake fish can be done (with some Malawians), but choose smaller, active ones with a bit of attitude themselves and the same feeding habits (aufwuchs eaters too), like Labeotropheus, Pseudotropheus lombardoi, maylandia estherae, Melanochromis etc.
Plan B should not automatically be twice as much explosives as Plan A
Hi
10x for all your support! you are cool guys...
about the moliro, i bought an already grouped troop. all 7 of them are above 5cm...
from a guy who had them in a smaller tank and had no room...
about the options you gave me, ill check them out when ill get to work...
what about the cats that i have now? really love those cats...
the do pretty good with the auratus...
10x again...
10x for all your support! you are cool guys...
about the moliro, i bought an already grouped troop. all 7 of them are above 5cm...
from a guy who had them in a smaller tank and had no room...
about the options you gave me, ill check them out when ill get to work...
what about the cats that i have now? really love those cats...
the do pretty good with the auratus...
10x again...
Not always pink, but always a Panther