Bloat due to cold?
Bloat due to cold?
Recently a heater failed in one of my tanks and the temps dropped to the low 60s -I didn't pay much attention to it and as I noticed the ancistruses in there getting fatter I thought they were going to spawn but as I added some small vieja argentea that also got very fat I thought the eggs were laid and eaten. However the viejas are not getting thinner nor are they exhibiting any other problems.
Tank conditions are NH3/4, NO2, NO3 all 0, PH 7.5 and temps now back to 78-80.
I have fed normally and the fish eat normally (Aquadine flake, zuccini, bloodworms, blackworms, brineshrimp, shrimp , etc . Since I noticed the bloat I have done a large waterchange and added epsomsalt, raised temps, mashed peas and food medicted with metronidazole.
How long do I wait for results? What do I try next - I read that clout might help but I don't want to poison my fish with too many medicins.
Tank conditions are NH3/4, NO2, NO3 all 0, PH 7.5 and temps now back to 78-80.
I have fed normally and the fish eat normally (Aquadine flake, zuccini, bloodworms, blackworms, brineshrimp, shrimp , etc . Since I noticed the bloat I have done a large waterchange and added epsomsalt, raised temps, mashed peas and food medicted with metronidazole.
How long do I wait for results? What do I try next - I read that clout might help but I don't want to poison my fish with too many medicins.
- Barbie
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I've read your posts on this on both mojo's board and here, and to be honest, I think you're dealing with some form of secondary problem that stress might have brought on. You said their feces looks normal, and you've returned their temperature to normal range, correct? They're eating normally, but look very "bloated". Do you use salt in your aquariums? How often are you doing water changes? If they were mine, I would try daily 30% water changes for a week or so, and see if there is something in the water aggravating them. You don't mention losing any, and regular feces and good appetite would keep me from treating them with anything but water changes and maybe short rations of food for a week. I mean REALLY short rations. Fat isn't good for the cichlids either, so feed only what the cichlids are cleaning up in 30 seconds every other day for a week while you do those water changes and you should at least start to see a difference, in my experience.
Barbie
Barbie
Inxs how often do you normaly feed your fish and how often does the food normaly last? also you have no NO3 at all. how long have you had the tank set up. are the test kits in date? its not unknown for there to be no NO3 infact a few of my tanks are that way however it normaly requires co2 or nitrate reducer, ro unit plus lots of changes or one of those lucky people who have 0 nitrate stright out the tap.
Barbie,
thanks for the reply, yes I have posted this question on half a dozen boards and am getting hardly any responses.
To answer your questinon: No, I don't usually use salt. I have added some Epsom salt to the tank in question (1 Tbs) .
I did notice a 'hanger' stringy poop on one of the bloated argenteas yesterday (first one).
Waterchanges are about 50% every 3 days or so.
No I have had 0 losses in this tank.
Right now I have fed 'well' as the fish eat it all quickly. I have restructured the feeding to mashed peas and aquadine flake mixed for CA cichlids (allpurpouse 1/3, protein 1/3 and spirulina1/3) which I soak in metronidazole .I have also cut back on the feedings eventhough the fish eat it all.
I'll start daily waterchanges tomorrow.
magnum 4,
Thanks, I feed daily in the morning and sometimes just before lights out for the plecos.
The food lasts less then 5 minutes.
Testkits seem to work normal as they have registered up and down the spectrum for all tests. The GH is 9 out of the tap and PH about 7.8. This usually comes down with the driftwood to 7.5. NO3 is 0 outof tap (Saliferts lowrange kit) and doesn't get a chance to climb with the waterchanges.
Tank is about 3-4 months up and running.
OK, just went and checked on them and they are all well - maybe a slight slimming down.
I also did 1/3 waterchange . I did notice a bit of stringy poop on several fish so I will continue with metronidazole.
thanks for the reply, yes I have posted this question on half a dozen boards and am getting hardly any responses.
To answer your questinon: No, I don't usually use salt. I have added some Epsom salt to the tank in question (1 Tbs) .
I did notice a 'hanger' stringy poop on one of the bloated argenteas yesterday (first one).
Waterchanges are about 50% every 3 days or so.
No I have had 0 losses in this tank.
Right now I have fed 'well' as the fish eat it all quickly. I have restructured the feeding to mashed peas and aquadine flake mixed for CA cichlids (allpurpouse 1/3, protein 1/3 and spirulina1/3) which I soak in metronidazole .I have also cut back on the feedings eventhough the fish eat it all.
I'll start daily waterchanges tomorrow.
magnum 4,
Thanks, I feed daily in the morning and sometimes just before lights out for the plecos.
The food lasts less then 5 minutes.
Testkits seem to work normal as they have registered up and down the spectrum for all tests. The GH is 9 out of the tap and PH about 7.8. This usually comes down with the driftwood to 7.5. NO3 is 0 outof tap (Saliferts lowrange kit) and doesn't get a chance to climb with the waterchanges.
Tank is about 3-4 months up and running.
OK, just went and checked on them and they are all well - maybe a slight slimming down.
I also did 1/3 waterchange . I did notice a bit of stringy poop on several fish so I will continue with metronidazole.
- Barbie
- Expert
- Posts: 2964
- Joined: 03 Jan 2003, 23:48
- I've donated: $360.00!
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- My catfish: 2
- My cats species list: 58 (i:2, k:0)
- Spotted: 8
- Location 1: Spokane, WA
- Location 2: USA
Metro. is a drug that was developed for people. They have such good success with it when using it on discus, because of the increased temperatures. I've noticed MUCH better results with it, if I use it in tanks I've upped to the maximum temperature range for the fish I'm treating. Feeding it is much more effective than treating the water, as long as the nasty taste of it doesn't put the fish off its food. If you do decide to warm the water up for treatment, keep in mind you must supplement oxygen to the water or you'll put the fish at risk with the lowered levels of dissolved oxygen in the tanks, in my experience.
I hope that helps. Its very hard to make a guesstimate at what can be wrong with fish from a description, especially when there aren't obvious symptoms. The stringy feces would definitely be a sign of an internal problem, and I would treat them with metro soaked food also, if they were mine.
Barbie
I hope that helps. Its very hard to make a guesstimate at what can be wrong with fish from a description, especially when there aren't obvious symptoms. The stringy feces would definitely be a sign of an internal problem, and I would treat them with metro soaked food also, if they were mine.
Barbie
Thanks for the tip on raising the temps, I will try that.
The fish seem very happy with Aquadine and soaking the flakes in it works - they eat it all.
I have the powerhead aimed at the boxfilter bubbling so I think there is pretty good airation of the water also with the daily waterchanges but I will keep an eye on it, thanks again for the tips.
The fish seem very happy with Aquadine and soaking the flakes in it works - they eat it all.
I have the powerhead aimed at the boxfilter bubbling so I think there is pretty good airation of the water also with the daily waterchanges but I will keep an eye on it, thanks again for the tips.