filtration and set up for 55 gallon bn breeding

[teniosa]

So I *used* to have a 55 gallon community tank. But my bn Plecos decided it was much better for breeding. They're about to hatch their second clutch and the first is about 5 weeks old. I don't intend to separate the adults if I can find homes for babies, because I only have one tank (not counting qt). There's a newish local lfs that I don't think carries bn's yet. So I'm hoping they'll take them.

Anyways. If all this works out, I need to amp up filtration for sure. I'm not sure what other changes to make. I currently have the 55 hooked up to the factory recommended fluval canister filter (305? 205? I'm not sure off the top of my head) with a sponge pre filter. It also has a separate sponge filter powered by an air pump. I'm about to upgrade to two 100w heaters, And eventually get external controllers for them. I have a bubble wall also hooked up to the air pump. Substrate is small gravel and tons of wood and rock caves, which I may add more of. There are a few plants, I want more but they get dug up a lot so I haven't planted more despite wanting them.

My question... I'm pretty sure I need more filtration if I'm going to try to grow out Plecos in there. How would you add/change filtration (or anything else) to make this tank work?

I have a few cardinal tetras and a few loaches in there. The tetras can move/be exchanged if the tank isn't going to work for them.

[Shane]

Filtration is really of second importance to water changes. How often and how much water are you changing out?
-Shane

[teniosa]

Usually do 25% a week, obviously will have to increase.

[Shane]

Yes, in a fry grow out tank water quality is the most important factor. Water quality is essentially only improved by water changes. Filtration mainly serves to delay the inevitable degradation of water quality that takes place between water changes.

My fry grow out tanks get a minimum 60% water change weekly and the more sensitive species may get a 60% change 2-3 times weekly.

I also do what I call a "flush" on all my tanks every 4-5 months to avoid what I call "Old Tank Syndrome." Even when doing large frequent water changes waste products will continue to accumulate over time.

Nitrates become harmful around 20 ppm. If the tank's normal nitrogen cycle produces 1 ppm nitrates weekly (it is usually less, but 1 is an easy number to use as an example), what happens over time with 25% water changes?
Week 1: 1ppm nitrates, water change drops this to .75 ppm
Week 2: 1.75 ppm nitrates, water change drops this to 1.32 ppm
Week 3: 2.32 ppm nitrates, water change drops this to 1.74 ppm

Following this pattern about 6 months later the hobbyist starts to see health issues associated with high nitrates and is baffled because they have been religious about water changes. Things then usually get worse as the hobbyist starts trying medications for what they are sure is a disease.

All that is needed to cure Old Tank Syndrome is a "flush" which consists of 50-60 percent water changes 2-3 times over 2-3 days. This will then "zero" the tank back to zero nitrate accumulation.

This is a very long way of saying "zero" out your 55, start 50-60 % water changes, and you will see great fry growth rates without adding more filtration.

-Shane

[teniosa]

Thanks Shane that's great info! ! While I'm asking questions.... two more.

How much do I feed? I feel like I'm over feeding but there are SO many of them lol. I try to keep fresh veg in there most of the time plus I drop earthworm pellets (6-8 broken into little pieces) or some defrosted brine or brine pellets once or twice a day. And two or three small pieces of veg stick bc my queen won't eat fresh veg and she always goes for the sticks.

What do you do about debris under caves? There's only about 4" at the front that isn't buried under caves and driftwood. So how often would I need to tear things out to vacuum under?

[Shane]

Keep fresh veg available all the time and rotate what you use. I mainly rotate between squash, zucchini, and cucumber but mix in spinach leaves, broccoli stems, green beans, etc. My wife always cooks an extra serving of veg with dinner just for the fish. In terms of other foods just feed what the non plecos need. Yes the plecos will ingest a little bit of the leftovers, but it should be small enough amounts that they do not suffer from bloating.

I would shoot for a tear down when you do your "zero" every 3-4 months. Nearly everyone I know has stopped using deep substrate in breeding tanks simply because bare bottom breeding tanks are much easier to clean.

-Shane

[teniosa]

We do rotate, So far zucchini, squash, peas, sweet potato. I'm going to add more. The pleco swarm the pellets I drop too though... if I don't feed extra, Will there be enough left for the loaches? They don't rush out to eat. I've contemplated removing them, But the queen is the last of a school I bought years ago, I'm kind fo attached to her.

I've considered less gravel/bare... But I'd rather have more work and have it look nicer. And the gravel helps stabilize the rocks and drift wood. So I'll try just digging things out when I do the deep clean.

Thank you again! !

[NCE12940]

A far-from-expert experience here. I have a 45g, gravel, plants, driftwood, ceramic caves, that is my BN breeding tank. (I do have other tanks I use for growing out some of the babies.) So far I've had 4 spawns in this tank and have currently moved the male to another tank until I grow enough of the babies out to have another spawn. This tank has a Penguin 350 Bio-Wheel, AquaClear 50, and a small sponge filter, as well as an airstone. Obviously a very high bio-load so I do water change + gravel vacuuming every day or every other day. Also need to clean the filters weekly and the intake on the Penguin more often than that (and the pre-filter sponge on the AC every day). I have an open area in the front of the tank with 2 petri dishes that I use for feeding (helps localize the mess). I also use Pleco Feeders for feeding veggies. Other food is primarily Repashy gel foods plus occasional wafers. I move the driftwood, etc., every month or so to clean under them. I've had one bare-bottom tank and it is easier to clean but I hated looking at it (in my bedroom) so it's now gravel + plants & driftwood. Anyway, it can be done though it is more work but I find it more pleasing to look at (the 45g is in my living room).