Shipping tips

fishnut2 · Post by **fishnut2** » 18 Dec 2003, 05:42

Hi Everyone,
I'm new to PC, but trust me, I've been shipping fish for a while now. Winter shipping can present certain issues. I use Uniheat heat packs and have found them to be reliable. I keep 10/20/30/40/60 hour packs on hand... to combat the different weather challenges. I just shipped to New Jersey...from Chicago...using a 40 hour/60 hour combination! The fish arrived a day late...at 74F.
When shipping cories...I always double bag with 3 mil bags. Invert one bag...which rounds out the corners. Breeders get individually wrapped! I tie my bags...but that is strictly my preference. Lay the bags on thier side. The fish have more surface area that way. Tape the heat packs to the lid. Allow for oxygen to flow around the packs...or they won't work properly. If a heat pack gets wet...it is useless!
I always tape the lid in cold weather. This again...is a preference. In the spring...I'll post my summer strategies. FREE supplies as well as saving on shipping costs! Keep those prized pets safe. And have a happy and safe holiday!
Rich

fishnut2 · Post by **fishnut2** » 19 Dec 2003, 16:20

Hi all,
I have a little extra time...so here's the other tips now. I'm hoping a few of these tips might save a few fish. FREE shipping supplies can be obtained at http://www.usps.com
They will ship the supplies right to your front door...at no charge! I highly recommend the #4 box...which will hold 6 small bags (2 trios of guppies) and ship for about $8 via priority. For shipping Breeder cories...I like the #7 box. This will hold 6...6" x 18" bags, and ship for about $12 via priority. In addition to the FREE boxes...USPS will provide FREE priority and express tape, and well as self addresses shipping labels.
For insulation, I get the 4' x 8' sheets of pink building insulation. I precut the insulation prior to shipping...just to save on time and storage. During the winter...I tape all the corners, with duct tape. Since you are using new shipping supplies...the box looks very professional upon arrival...instead of reusing a box, that's been to 5 or 6 locations.
Florida shipping boxes can be found at most local fish stores. Some will try to charge you, as they are starting to get charged on thier end. Most will just throw them away, on the day that thier orders arrive. I enjoy reading the labels on the used boxes! Most store owners forget to cut off the labels...and are giving you thier sources for fish

fishnut2 · Post by **fishnut2** » 19 Dec 2003, 16:30

Oh,
Don't be afraid to use multiple heat packs. An additional heat pack will raise the box temperature about another 10 degrees (stated by Uni Heat on the 20 hour heat pack). The difference between 72 and 62 could mean...live arrival or DOAs. I always pack for an additional day of travel...in case of delay. If it's overnight...they'll get a 40 hour. 2-day delivery gets a 60 hour.
This can get tricky shipping from cold weather, to a warmer climate. Use a little common sense...check temps in both locations...and keep those fish safe!!!
Hope this helps somebody

Rich

fishnut2 · Post by **fishnut2** » 20 Dec 2003, 20:16

Please feel free to add to this. I know I didn't cover everything. And I DEFINETELY don't know it all. Join the cause: SAVE fishes' lives!

Post by **Barbie** » 20 Dec 2003, 20:46

I personally always fast the fish for a minimum of 24 hours, usually 48, especially in larger bodied fish. I also do an extra water change the day before I'm going to ship, so the bag water is optimal. Many people use part tap water, but rather than go to the extra effort, I just change the water in the whole tank.

Some people swear by bag buddies. I've used them, and also not used them with good success. Making sure that there is at least twice the air, if not three times the air to water ratio in the bags is very important.

When I'm bagging fish, I fill one bag, tie it off or band it, then I set it bottom down into another bag, after making a 1/4 turn. This gives me a nice flat bottomed bag, with both openings at the top, and no corners for my fish to get into. Then if the bands or whatever leak, the water stays with the fish, at least. It also gives you a bag that will stand on a countertop, not roll off, which is basically how I developed it in the first place, when I did my stint at the LFS.

I'm sure there are many valuable tips to shipping that people have picked up along the way. I really like Shane's idea in the other thread about using plastic jugs. Those jars we buy cashews and parmesan cheese in at Costco would be ideal. I wonder how badly Bob will react when I start saving them too?

Barbie

locolt1 · Post by **locolt1** » 09 Jan 2004, 20:54

Where could I buy the uniheat heat packs?

fishnut2 · Post by **fishnut2** » 09 Jan 2004, 21:29

Hi Locolt1,
The best prices for UniHeat packs can be found here:
http://www.reptilepackaging.com/heatprice.html
Rich

Post by **Dinyar** » 09 Jan 2004, 21:33

* Wrap the plastic bags in newspaper, or cut a black plastic bag to fit over it, in order to darken the bag and thus reduce the stress on the fish.

* Adding a few drops of meth blue (an oxygen scavenger) is an option, but not really necessary.

* DON'T use an anesthetic.

* Leave some slack in the bags to accommodate the change in air pressure on an airplane.