Help with a Tanganyikan display.

[Shaun]

I want to set up a Tanganyikan display in a 75cmx42cmx45cm - 140 ltrs tank. I'm fascinated by lake Tang Cichlids and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on fish/setup for a small community biotope? I know the tank isn't all that large, and I don't want to overstock either. The tank has a top-trickle filter fed by a large canister. Large capacity filtration, plenty of oxygenation, but without a strong current in the tank.
Thanks
Shaun

[worton[pl]]

hey,

i'm fascinated by dwarf versions of big species like altolamprologus sp. shell (sumbu or other variations) or telmatochromis sp. shell.
But you know it's up to you ;) it will be your tank and there is so many great species to choose from.
After this year holidays when fish hobby buisness will move again my friends will try to import livebearers from Tanganyika , splendid little fish ;).

You can put there few species of catfishes as well but that strongly depends on which and how many cichlids you will choose.

Regards.

[Richard B]

essentially a 30x15x15 inch..

A lot depends on your aspirations - cichlids only, any cats, breeding? but if you have no real goals then there are a few good options, small shell dwellers, a nice shoal of cypri/paracyprichromis, but personal; choice is so very key here - is there anything you particulalrly want to achieve?

I'd suggest a variant of cyprichromis with some syno lucipinnis & maybe some Lamprichthys tanganicanus...

[Chrysichthys]

The most suitable catfish species would be:

Synodontis petricola

Synodontis lucipinnis

(both generally sold as petricola)

Synodontis multipunctata

Synodontis grandiops

(both generally sold as multipunctatus)

[Richard B]

The most suitable catfish species would be:

Synodontis petricola

Synodontis lucipinnis

(both generally sold as petricola)

Synodontis multipunctata

Synodontis grandiops

(both generally sold as multipunctatus)

Not forgetting P Typus, L Brevispinnis & the undescribed Syn sp2 "white polli"

[Shaun]

Thanks for the suggestions
Richard, I like the idea of shelldwellers and Cyprichromis. That's basically what I want to achieve, compatible fish in a nice little display. Obviously shellies require shells, do either species require rock structures?
Unfortunently the only Tanganyikan catfish readily available here are S. petricola and S. multipunctata. I thought the tank was a bit on the small side for S. multipunctata...but S. petricola I've always found interesting. Would they be compatible for a tank this size and with shelldwellers etc? They seem very active.
Shaun

[Barbie]

Honestly, I wouldn't recommend Cyprichromis for a tank that length. Even the "non" jumbo types are going to put quite a bit of pressure on each other without room to get away. You'd be ahead to do something like Neolamp. caudopunctatus, that would hang mid water, but also use shells. Those and the Altolamp. compressiceps "sumbu dwarf" would give you an interesting tank, especially if you add in the Syno. lucipinnis (what they usually are selling when they call them petricola). You might be able to keep Paracyps, as they don't group up and charge around as much, more hang upside down by decor. Good luck . Tanganyikans can be quite addictive!

Barbie

[Shaun]

Thanks Barbie. I hadn't considered Paracyprichromis...there's so many Tangs to choose from! There's a huge variety available even here in Australia, often many things are hard to get here, (like Catfish!) so it's good to see. I'm still a little bit nervous about putting Synodontis in here though...because the tank will quickly change from "display" to "another breeding project" when you put Catfish into the mix
Shaun

[Shaun]

Another question crosses my mind...
I haven't had much experience with "hard" water species, what is the best way to maintain the right water parameters for them? My tapwater is slightly alkaline but with zero GH or KH, so no buffering capacity. I know salt/sodium chloride is generally the recommended way to go, but I have read salt can be bad for fish? I have plenty of Coral Sand to use as substrate and some Coral Rubble to double as filter media, this should buffer the pH/raise KH, but what's the best way to raise the GH?
Thanks,
Shaun

[Barbie]

IMO, raising the gH isn't as important for them as keeping the pH/kH stable. If the parameters aren't swinging around, they easily adjust. I keep my wild Tanganyikans in Spokane tap water, with a pH of 7.8, kH of 3, and gH of 5-7 (depending on the time of year). They breed like bunnies, so I am pretty sure they're happy. I've had the moba fronts for 5 years now. Basically gH IS salt, or inert compounds, so it can be easy to raise. I just don't think it's as critical as it sounds. The fact that they've adapted to be able to withstand harsh conditions doesn't mean they require them to be quite that extreme to thrive. It just means they can.

Barbie

[Phyllonemus]

Great catfish to combine with Paracyprychromis ara

Phyllonemus typus

but I don't know if the tanksize is sufficiant.

[Shaun]

Great catfish to combine with Paracyprychromis ara Phyllonemus typus but I don't know if the tanksize is sufficiant.

Again, great fish, but if they were available here I'd would already have some

I keep my wild Tanganyikans in Spokane tap water, with a pH of 7.8, kH of 3, and gH of 5-7 (depending on the time of year).

So using coral sand/rubble should be ok to buffer the pH? And maybe some homemade conditioning salts to bring the GH up from near zero? I'm glad it's not as complicated as I thought it was.
Shaun