HELP My WALLAGO ATTU has ICH !!!!!
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HELP My WALLAGO ATTU has ICH !!!!!
I recently acquired a WALLAGO ATTU (killer cat) from a local fish store about two weeks ago. Today I noticed he as well as the two Oscars in his tank have a lot of white spots which I believe are ICH. I need to know how to treat (i.e. water temp, medicine, etc) as it appears the limited information I found indicates that cats can not always be treated as other fish who have ich. He is still eating but I also need to know how many feeders I should feed him and how often. He seems to gorge himself rapidly every time I put feeders in the tank. I would appreciate any information anyone has as it seems hard to find out anything about this fish. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Read this thread. It discusses Synodontis, but the same mathod can be used for Wallago. What size tank do you have?
You want to try weaning it off of feeders and onto pellets if possible. You should only feed every one-two weeks, as with all large cats.
Rusty
You want to try weaning it off of feeders and onto pellets if possible. You should only feed every one-two weeks, as with all large cats.
Rusty
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penelty box.

WALLAGO ATTU is covered in the cat-elog. you can use the search at the top of the site. it will link you to all information availible.
Suggest you test your water for ammonia, nitrite and pH to start with. if you haven't already. with this amount of fish in a 20 gallon tank there is a good chance the water is polluted and this will be increasing risk of infection from "ICH". what filtration system do you have?I recently acquired a WALLAGO ATTU (killer cat) from a local fish store about two weeks ago. Today I noticed he as well as the two Oscars in his tank
I do hope you know how big it grows, otherwise your in for a shockI would appreciate any information anyone has as it seems hard to find out anything about this fish. Thanks in advance for your help.

WALLAGO ATTU is covered in the cat-elog. you can use the search at the top of the site. it will link you to all information availible.
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Thanks. I am planning on testing the water this evening and will probably go for a 10-15% water change that I had already prepped water for. I have already increased the temp, covered the tank, and increased aireation. I also have acquired medicine which the store swears is safe for cats @ 1/2 dosage that I will use this evening as well .
As far as fish in tank your post seems to indicate the tank may be too crowded with the 3 fish ( 1 -6" cat + 2 -4" Oscars) but the pet store assured me 20 gallons was fine for 1-2 years. Do you disagree ?
As far as fish in tank your post seems to indicate the tank may be too crowded with the 3 fish ( 1 -6" cat + 2 -4" Oscars) but the pet store assured me 20 gallons was fine for 1-2 years. Do you disagree ?
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A picture I took this summer:

These are very fast growing, and will out grow your current tank within a 2-3 months, if it isn't already too big. Add the oscars to the mix, and you need a new tank ASAP. I'd look at a 200 gallon tank as a minimum, since all of the fish are very aggressive and will get very large very fast.
Rusty

These are very fast growing, and will out grow your current tank within a 2-3 months, if it isn't already too big. Add the oscars to the mix, and you need a new tank ASAP. I'd look at a 200 gallon tank as a minimum, since all of the fish are very aggressive and will get very large very fast.
Rusty
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- Silurus
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Penalty Box,
Did you try the Cat-eLog for info on W. attu?
My experience with large predatory silurids is that they can be weaned off feeders, but it takes time and a lot of patience. My advice is to start by using freshly-killed feeders (chill them until they die). Most predatory silurids are sensitive to movement, so drop the dead feeder in front of the catfish to see if it will respond (remove the dead fish immediately if it's not eaten, though).
Once it begins to eat dead feeders, you can gradually substitute with chunks of fish or shrimp. Pellets will be difficult: as the fish gets bigger, it will ignore smaller pieces of potential food items.
Did you try the Cat-eLog for info on W. attu?
My experience with large predatory silurids is that they can be weaned off feeders, but it takes time and a lot of patience. My advice is to start by using freshly-killed feeders (chill them until they die). Most predatory silurids are sensitive to movement, so drop the dead feeder in front of the catfish to see if it will respond (remove the dead fish immediately if it's not eaten, though).
Once it begins to eat dead feeders, you can gradually substitute with chunks of fish or shrimp. Pellets will be difficult: as the fish gets bigger, it will ignore smaller pieces of potential food items.

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OK. I tested the water and here are the results. PH 7.4, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 5ppm. The tank is about two weeks old. Should I try to change some water or just use a product to lower nitrite, or both? The ich spots are still prevelant but appear to be subsiding with the temp increase, additional aireation, and no light. Thanks for the help.
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Essentially, you do not want to introduce diseases/parasites with the feeders. You can go around this problem by breeding your own feeders, but this may be more trouble than it's worth.One more question is the goal to not use feeders to reduce chance of illness due to constant introduction of new fish into tank or for another reason ?

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water changes to get that nitrite down, nitrite reducers do work but not that well. untill the tank is fully cycled another 4-6weeks or so. I would cut the food down, feed every other day or every 3 days. change about 50% to get that nitrite down quicker and then i would change at the least 30% twice a week, but keep monitering the water the nitrite should not exceed <1ppm if you can help it.PH 7.4, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 5ppm. The tank is about two weeks old